The Gardening Launch Pad Blog

Winterizing Your Greenhouse

2011-09-30T04:28:00.000-07:00

Image via WikipediaJack Frost has already drawn up his list of greenhouses to visit. Will you be ready? Here's the routine we follow at our house each fall:

1. Clean The Greenhouse
Take all plants out of the greenhouse and thoroughly clean the frame, glazing and benches.
Make glass sparkle brightly again with the detergent For stubborn algae spots, I spray with Physan 20 or household bleach and let them soak before rinsing. For tree pitch and adhesive residue.

Fiberglass and TwinWall or TripleWall polycarbonate should be rinsed and then washed with a mild liquid dishwashing soap and lukewarm water. Use a soft cloth or sponge. For polycarbonate, rub only in the same direction as the channels to avoid scratches that show.

Wood frameworks will benefit from another application of copper or zinc preservative or latex paint. Metal frames, door hinges and vents should be oiled).

2. Heat Conservation/Insulation
If you have wanted to upgrade your greenhouse, now is the time to replace poly or single glass with insulated TwinWall. Charley's shop will cut the panels to fit your requirements. Send us your sizes for price quotes.

Replace any broken glass or aging poly cover. Caulk as necessary, especially around the foundation. Apply foam tapes to doors and vents to make an airtight seal.

If you have single layer glass and plan to heat your greenhouse, Bubble Insulation can provide significant heat savings. Simply apply to the inside of the walls and roof. North walls and solid walls should be lined with insulation and light reflection. If you frequently have freezing weather, line all but the south wall with Reflectix. For sub-zero climates, place Reflectix across the south glazing at night.

If you already have insulated polycarbonate glazing, use a Greenhouse Liner to reflect light and radiant heat.

3. Check Your Heater
Test run your heater and replace any component that does not operate perfectly. Clean the fan blades, oil the motor and protect the housing and electrical connections.

Check the accuracy of the heater thermostat... Monitor air temperature with a min./max. thermometer. Set the heater thermostat 10°F above the present temperature. When the heater shuts off, reset the min./max. thermometer. Let the system run for 30 minutes with several on/off cycles. Check the min./max. thermometer. Variation should be 2°F to 4°F. More than 6°F variation should be investigated and corrected.

4. Winter Storm Emergencies
Keep a backup heater ready for immediate use. Also have on hand a winter shield, extra poly and poly repair tape. Make a checklist of what to do if severe weather strikes or the greenhouse heater fails.

Power Failure: A battery-operated Temperature Alarm is essential if the heat goes off in the middle of the night. Portable propane and kerosene heaters are popular emergency heaters, but both require some ventilation. If you do not have a backup heater, you can provide temporary heat by draining the household water heater and placing buckets of hot water in the greenhouse. Cover the plants with newspapers.

If Freezing Is Unavoidable: BE SURE TO DRAIN ALL WATER LINES! Spray plants with water. A coating of ice (32°F) will offer some protection from colder temperatures for hardier plants.

Plastic bottles

2011-01-02T06:55:00.000-08:00

Image by Getty Images via @daylife

"So I'm drinking water (I drink bottled, I know that's so unecological) and thinking how much I hate to throw the bottles away, but what could I use them for?! Well, I took a bottle and snipped it in half, voila, a seedling pot!" I got this on one of my email list.

Buffalograss FAQ

2010-11-14T06:14:00.000-08:00

Image via WikipediaNative lawns in Texas often display the fine, curly, blue-green leaves of buffalograss, curly mesquite, grama and needlegrasses. Of these, buffalograss produces the most uniform and attractive turf.

Buffalograss, Buchloe dactyloides, is a perennial grass native to the Great Plains from Montana to Mexico. In Texas, it is commonly found from South Texas to the Texas Panhandle; but is rarely found on the sandy soils in the eastern part of the state or in the high rainfall areas of southeast Texas. It is one of the grasses that supported the great herds of buffalo that roamed the Great Plains. Buffalograss also provided the sod from which early settlers built their houses.

Buffalograss is, perhaps, our only truly native turfgrass. Its tolerance to prolonged droughts and to extreme temperatures together with its seed producing characteristics enables buffalograss to survive extreme environmental conditions. Overgrazing and, in the case of turf, over use or excessive traffic are the pressures that lead to the deterioration of a stand of buffalograss.

Buffalograss spreads by surface runners, or stolons, and seed. It forms a fine textured, relatively thin turf with a soft blue-green color. It does not possess underground stems, or rhizomes. Buffalograss is also destroyed quite readily by cultivation. For these reasons, it can be readily removed from flower beds and gardens.

Description. Buffalograss is a low growing, commonly only 8 to 10 inches high, warm season perennial grass. Individual leaf blades may reach 10 to 12 inches in length, but they fall over and give the turf a short appearance. Buffalograss has a stoloniferous growth habit, curly leaves, and both staminate and pistillate flowers. Staminate (male) plants have 2 to 3 flag-like, one-sided spikes on a seedstalk 4 to 6 inches high. Spikelets, usually 10, are 4 mm long in two rows on one side of the rachis.

Pistillate (female) plants appear very different from the staminate plants. Pistillate spikelets are in a short spike or head and included in the inflated sheaths of the upper leaves. The thickened rachis is woody and surrounded by the outer glumes. The glumes together with the lemma and palea form a bur-like enclosure for the mature seed.

Both male and female plants have stolons from several inches to several feet in length, internodes 2 to 3 inches long, and nodes with tufts of short leaves. Plants often take root at the node and produce new shoots. Each plant propagates vegetatively its own kind, and only rarely are both male and female flowers produced on the same plant. Commonly each kind of plant is found in patches some distance apart.

As buffalograss and curly mesquite are both low growing, stononiferous grasses with curly leaves, some difficulty may be encountered in distinguishing them. If the grasses are not in flower, they can be identified by their nodes and internodes. Nodes of buffalograss are smooth, and those of curly mesquite are villous. Also, the internodes of buffalograss are quite short (less than 3 inches) while those of curly mesquite are quite long.

The production and utilization of buffalograss is hampered by poor germination of the seed, or bur. It has been suggested that poor germination is due to the mechanical restraint imposed on the embryo by the tough enclosing outer glumes. The fact that seed extracted from the bur readily germinate is cited as evidence of inhibitor substances in the glumes that delay germination of the seed.

Adaptation and Use. Buffalograss is found throughout the Great Plains from Mexico to Montana. In Texas, buffalograss is commonly found from the south central region westward to El Paso and north to the High Plains and Rolling Plains. It favors the heavy clay soils in moderate to low rainfall areas. Buffalograss is rare in the sandy soils of east Texas and the high rainfall areas of southeast Texas.

When buffalograss is planted in high rainfall areas or when it is irrigated and fertilized, bermudagrass and other weedy grasses invade a stand of buffalograss. Buffalograss is best adapted to low rainfall areas (15 to 30 inches annually) or areas that receive thorough, but infrequent irrigation.

Buffalograss is not adapted to shaded sites or to sites that receive heavy traffic. Also, under intensive management bermudagrass and other more aggressive grasses tend to replace buffalograss in the lawn.

Roadsides, school grounds, parks, open lawn areas, golf course roughs and cemeteries are good sites for buffalograss in central, west and north Texas. Buffalograss is particularly well suited for sites to be planted to bluebonnets and other Texas wildflowers since it produces a relatively open, thin turf and requires little mowing. It is the ideal grass for those wanting a "native" landscape.

Establishment. Buffalograss can be established from seed (burs) or sod. Buffalograss established from seed develops into patches of male and female plants, with the male plants producing the seedstalks that may appear unsightly in lawns. When planting buffalograss vegetatively, female plants are generally selected since they do not produce the taller seedstalks. Prairie and 609 buffalograsses are female plant selections released by the Texas andNebraska Agricultural Experiment Stations in 1990. They produce a more dense and uniform turf than common types. Prairie and 609 buffalograsses must be established from sod or sod plugs.

When planting seed, seed treatment, seeding rate and date of seeding are important considerations. Treated seed, seed chilled at 5 to 10 degrees for 6 to 8 weeks or treated chemically to break dormancy, have a much higher germination rate (80% to 90%) than untreated seed (20%). For spring and summer plantings, treated seed should be planted.

April and May are the best months to plant treated buffalograss seeds as temperatures are favorable and moisture is generally adequate. With irrigation the planting date can be extended into July and August.

Fall plantings of untreated buffalograss seed are also successful, but maximum germination does not occur until the following spring.

Treated seed planted in May will germinate in 7 to 10 days if moisture is adequate. Without irrigation the seed will remain dormant until moisture is favorable. Seed planted in dry conditions without irrigation should be drilled inch into a well prepared seedbed. Seed broadcast on the surface may germinate when little or no subsurface moisture is present to sustain the young seedlings.

Seeding rates may range from less than 0.5 pounds of seed per 1,000 sq. ft. to 4 to 6 pounds, depending on the method of planting and the time available to obtain a cover. Seeding rates are generally much higher for broadcast seeding on the soil surface than for that drilled in rows into the seedbed. Buffalograss seed drilled in rows at 10 to 20 lbs. per acre will produce a complete cover in one growing season with favorable moisture conditions. With no irrigation, broadcast seedling rates of 1 to 2 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. may require several seasons to develop a complete cover. In contrast, broadcast seeding rates of 4 to 6 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. will cover in several months with adequate moisture.

For sites that cannot be irrigated during establishment, recommended seeding rates would be 0.5 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft. if drilled and 2 to 4 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. if broadcast. If irrigated, areas could be planted at ° the rate recommended for nonirrigated sites. All of the seeding rates are for planting treated seed in late spring and summer for lawns, golf courses or other well maintained areas of turf. Roadsides, parks and other low maintenance areas can be planted at 10 to 20 lbs. of seed per acre.

Fall plantings using untreated seed should be at rates of 2 to 4 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. of lawn or turf area. Significant germination should not be expected until the following spring or summer when moisture is favorable.

Buffalograss can be established from pieces of sod or sod plugs not less than 2 inches square. These should be planted on a well prepared seedbed in about 18-inch rows. Plants can be spaced anywhere from 6 inches to 2 feet apart, depending on how quickly a complete cover is desired. The closer they are spaced, the sooner the ground will be covered. In digging up material for planting care should be taken to keep the roots moist as the plants die very quickly when the roots get dry. When planting, dig a hole deep enough to set the plants in so that the grass is above ground level. If the pieces of sod are covered with soil, they will die. The soil should be packed around the plants. Planting is best done in moist soil or where irrigation is available. The grass should be planted in early fall, spring or early summer, when moisture is favorable. Plants should be well watered after planting and as needed for several weeks, thereafter.

Management. Buffalograss is only recommended for low maintenance, low use turfgrass areas. It does not persist where use is intensive. Consequently, only minimum maintenance practices are required to keep a buffalograss turf.

Mowing height and frequency depend on the use of the site. In lawns, buffalograss can be mowed at heights of 2 to 3 inches. At the shorter heights weekly mowing may be required to keep a buffalograss turf.

On irrigated golf course fairways, buffalograss is mowed weekly at inch. Without irrigation, it is mowed only as needed at a 1 inch height. In rough areas on golf courses, buffalograss is mowed only as needed at the heights between 2 and 3 inches.

Buffalograss does not need fertilization, but it will respond to light applications of nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilization should not exceed 2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. per year. If bermudagrass is undesirable in the lawn, avoid nitrogen fertilization.

With irrigation, buffalograss will remain green throughout the spring and summer. One inch of water per week is adequate to maintain a green buffalograss turf. Without irrigation, buffalograss will turn brown and dormant during the dry summer months. As with fertilization, excessive water promotes bermudagrass encroachment.

Mowing your lawn

2010-07-11T06:22:00.000-07:00

Image by mikebaird via Flickr

The single most important part of building a beautiful lawn is to mow it frequently. Infrequent mowing intervals are more stressful to the turf and leave the lawn unsightly after each mowing. The more often you mow, the less is "pruned" off with each mowing. This minimizes stress and causes the turf to fill in nice and thick.

Professional turf fields are mowed every day or two, while golf greens may be mowed daily to attain the short, dense, top-quality turf. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands, this is nowhere near practical for most of us home lawn weekend warriors. Therefore try to aim for a 5 to 7 day mowing schedule to keep your lawn looking great.

Blade Height
Set the lawnmower a little higher for summer mowing. Short mowing heights result in turf that has a more limited root system. Such turf is more dependant on frequent watering. Turf mowed at a taller height will develop deeper roots and be more resilient.

St. Augustine can be mowed at a 2-1/2- to 3-inch height while zoysia and standard types of bermudagrass will do fine at 1-1/2 to 2 inches tall. Centipede does well at about 2 to 2-1/2 inches.

Check your lawn mower blade periodically. Nicks and dents may indicate a need for a new blade. Sharpen your mower blades regularly. This makes it easier for your mower to do its work and can make for a more attractive lawn too. Examine a few blades of grass. Stringy, ragged ends that are turning brown indicate a dull blade. Multiply these tiny tan to brown tips times a million and your lawn takes on a less attractive color and appearance.

Mulching Mowers
Mulching mowers are now the standard for the industry. They work great and really chomp up the clippings to return them to the lawn. This is a great way to feed the turf. If you were to send a clipping sample to the lab, get a nutrient analysis, and then multiply it out for all the mowings from the growing season, you would find that you apply more fertilizer through the lawnmower than through the fertilizer spreader. So think of that ol' mower as a fertilizer spreader and every mowing as an application of slow-release fertilizer.

The Return of the Push Mower
New lawns are getting smaller as the days of the giant city lot give way to townhomes, garden homes, and a trend toward smaller lot sizes. A gasoline mower may be more than you need to do your small turf area. Electric mowers, including battery-powered models, are a popular item these days. So are the old fashioned push reel mowers. They are great for small lawns, and I like the quiet swish of the blades as you mow. Plus, I'm sure the neighbors will be grateful when you get up early on a weekend morning to mow the lawn!

How to grow a pineapple indoors

2010-05-06T08:04:00.000-07:00

Image via Wikipedia

Question: I have always wanted to grow a pineapple plant as a
houseplant. Is this possible? Can I get it to grow a new pineapple to
eat? Can you tell me how to do this?
Answer: It is possible, and easy, to grow a pineapple plant indoors.
Growing new pineapple fruit is more difficult. To make full-sized
pineapples, the plant will ultimately need to get about six feet
across and six feet tall. But, you can grow it as an interesting
indoor plant and even get it to produce fruit (albeit small fruit)
without letting it take over the living room.

Start with a pineapple from the store. Cut the top off and trim the
fruit from this small plant. You will wind up with a tuft of leaves
and a bit of stalk. Carefully peel some of the lower leaves from the
base of the tuft of leaves to reveal more stem and some small bumps,
perhaps even some roots which have started to grow beneath the
leaves. The bumps, by the way, are root primordia, baby roots waiting
to grow. Place the stem portion of this into a potting soil which is
about one-half sand. Sandblasting sand is a good type of sand for
this. The idea is to have a potting soil which holds water well but
has enough sand to allow it to drain readily and to allow sufficient
oxygen into the soil.

Keep this soil slightly damp until roots develop. The roots should
form in about two months. I like to place the pot and plant in a
white garbage bag which is loosely sealed at the top. Place the plant
and the bag in a south window if possible. This garbage bag keeps the
humidity high and diffuses the light so the plant doesn't burn in the
sunlight. In a less sunny window, use a clear plastic bag. After
about two months, you should see some new growth beginning at the top
of the plant. Gently tug on the plant to see if new roots have
formed. If they are present, they will resist your tug. If absent,
the top of the pineapple will pull from the soil revealing the
absence of roots. If there are no roots, replace the pineapple top in
the soil and wait longer. If the base looks like it is rotting, start
again with a new pineapple top and fresh potting soil. Repeat the
process, but be sure not to over water.

To grow your new houseplant, give it a brightly lighted location
which receives at least six hours of bright light each day. Water
sparingly, as the soil drys. Don't over water, but don't let it go
completely dry either. Fertilize once or twice a month with a
houseplant fertilizer. If possible, let it spend the summer outside
in a brightly lighted location. You can find such a site in the shade
of a tree where grass grows successfully. Too much shade will not be
good. Before frost, bring the pineapple plant back indoors for the
winter. When the plant gets as large as you can manage, lay the plant
and pot on its side between waterings. This interferes with hormones
in the plant, causing the production of another hormone, ethylene,
which induces flowering. An alternative method of inducing flowering
is to place the plant in a bag with a ripening apple. The ripening
apple produces ethylene gas which will induce flowering in the
pineapple. You will have to continue these treatments for a couple of
months and will probably need to replace the apple several times.

Now that you know how to grow it, here is some interesting trivia
about your pineapple. The pineapple is a member of the bromeliad
family. As such it is related to Spanish moss and some interesting
ornamental plants sold in many nurseries. These ornamentals are
interesting in that they absorb water and nutrients from a water-
tight reservoir formed where the leaves come together, or by
interesting absorptive hairs which cover the Spanish moss and similar
bromeliads, allowing them to draw water and nutrients from the fog
and dust in the air. The pineapple, however, uses its roots like
houseplants with which you are familiar and should be easy to grow if
you treat it like a normal houseplant which needs bright light.

2010-02-28T06:21:00.000-08:00

Image via Wikipedia

AVOCADO Persea species Lauraceae

Common Name: Avocado, Alligator Pear (English); Aguacate, Palta
(Spanish)
Origin: The avocado probably originated in southern Mexico but was
cultivated from the Rio Grande to central Peru before the arrival of
Europeans.
Species: Guatamalan (Persea nubigena var. guatamalensis L. Wms.),
Mexican (P. americana var. drymifolia Blake), West Indian (P. americana
Mill. var. americana). Hybrid forms exist between all three types.
Related species: Coyo (Persea schiedeana Nees), Anay (Beilschmiedia anay
Kosterm)
Adaptation: Avocados do well in the mild-winter areas of California,
Florida and Hawaii. Some hardier varieties can be grown in the cooler
parts of northern and inland California and along the Gulf Coast. The
northern limits in California is approximately Cape Mendocino and Red
Bluff. Avocados do best some distance from ocean influence but are not
adapted to the desert interior. West Indian varieties thrive in humid,
tropical climates and freeze at or near 32¡ F. Guatamalan types are
native to cool, high-altitude tropics and are hardy 30 - 26¡ F. Mexican
types are native to dry subtropical plateaus and thrive in a
Mediterranean climate. They are hardy 24 - 19¡ F. Avocados need some
protection from high winds which may break the branches. There are dwarf
forms of avocados suitable for growing in containers. Avocados have been
grown in California (Santa Barbara) since 1871.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The avocado is a dense, evergreen tree, shedding many
leaves in early spring. It is fast growing and can with age reach 80
feet, although usually less, and generally branches to form a broad
tree. Some cultivars are columnar, others selected for nearly prostrate
form. One cultivar makes a good espalier. Growth is in frequent flushes
during warm weather in southern regions with only one long flush per
year in cooler areas. Injury to branches causes a secretion of dulcitol,
a white, powdery sugar, at scars. Roots are coarse and greedy and will
raise pavement with age. Grafted plants normally produce fruit within
one to two years compared to 8 - 20 years for seedlings.

Foliage: Avocado leaves are alternate, glossy, elliptic and dark green
with paler veins. They normally remain on the tree for 2 - 3 years. The
leaves of West Indian varieties are scentless, while Guatamalan types
are rarely anise-scented and have medicinal use. The leaves of Mexican
types have a pronounced anise scent when crushed. The leaves are high in
oils and slow to compost and may collect in mounds beneath trees.
Flowers: Avocado flowers appear in January - March before the first
seasonal growth, in terminal panicles of 200 - 300 small yellow-green
blooms. Each panicle will produce only one to three fruits. The flowers
are perfect, but are either receptive to pollen in the morning and shed
pollen the following afternoon (type A), or are receptive to pollen in
the afternoon, and shed pollen the following morning (type B). About 5%
of flowers are defective in form and sterile. Production is best with
cross-pollination between types A and B. The flowers attract bees and
hoverflies and pollination usually good except during cool weather.
Off-season blooms may appear during the year and often set fruit. Some
cultivars bloom and set fruit in alternate years.

Fruits: West Indian type avocados produce enormous, smooth round, glossy
green fruits that are low in oil and weigh up to 2 pounds. Guatamalan
types produce medium ovoid or pear-shaped, pebbled green fruits that
turn blackish-green when ripe. The fruit of Mexican varieties are small
(6 - 10 ounces) with paper-thin skins that turn glossy green or black
when ripe. The flesh of avocados is deep green near the skin, becoming
yellowish nearer the single large, inedible ovoid seed. The flesh is
hard when harvested but softens to a buttery texture. Wind-caused
abrasion can scar the skin, forming cracks which extend into the flesh.
"Cukes" are seedless, pickle-shaped fruits. Off-season fruit should not
be harvested with the main crop, but left on the tree to mature. Seeds
may sprout within an avocado when it is over-mature, causing internal
molds and breakdown. High in monosaturates, the oil content of avocados
is second only to olives among fruits, and sometimes greater. Clinical
feeding studies in humans have shown that avocado oil can reduce blood
cholesterol.

CULTURE

Location: Avocados will grow in shade and between buildings, but are
productive only in full sun. The roots are highly competitive and will
choke out nearby plants. The shade under the trees is too dense to
garden under, and the constant litter can be annoying. In cooler areas
plant the tree where it will receive sun during the winter. Give the
tree plenty of room--up to 20 feet. The avocado is not suitable for
hedgerow, but two or three trees can be planted in a single large hole
to save garden space and enhance pollination. At the beach or in windy
inland canyons, provide a windbreak of some sort. Once established the
avocado is a fairly tough tree. Indoor trees need low night temperatures
to induce bloom. Container plants should be moved outdoors with care.
Whitewashing the trunk or branches will prevent sunburn.
Soil: Avocado trees like loose, decomposed granite or sandy loam best.
They will not survive in locations with poor drainage. The trees grow
well on hillsides and should never be planted in stream beds. They are
tolerant of acid or alkaline soil. In containers use a planting mix
combined with topsoil. Plastic containers should be avoided. It is also
useful to plant the tub with annual flowers to reduce excess soil
moisture and temperature. Container plants should be leached often to
reduce salts.

Irrigation: Avocado trees may not need irrigation during the winter
rainy season, but watch for prolonged mid-winter dry spells. Over
irrigation can induce root which is the most common cause of avocado
failure. To test to see if irrigation is necessary, dig a hole 9 inches
deep and test the soil by squeezing. If it is moist (holds together), do
not irrigate; if it crumbles in the hand, it may be watered. Watch soil
moisture carefully at the end of the irrigating season. Never enter
winter with wet soil. Avocados tolerate some salts, though they will
show leaf tip burn and stunting of leaves. Deep irrigation will leach
salt accumulation.

Fertilization: Commence feeding of young trees after one year of growth,
using a balanced fertilizer, four times yearly. Older trees benefit from
feeding with nitrogenous fertilizer applied in late winter and early
summer. Yellowed leaves (chlorosis) indicate iron deficiency. This can
usually be corrected by a chelated foliar spray of trace elements
containing iron. Mature trees often also show a zinc deficiency.
Frost Protection: It is important to choose a cultivar that is hardy in
your area. Mexican types are the best choice for colder regions. Plant
above a slope for air drainage, or near the house for added protection.
In youth, protect with rugs, towels and such spread overhead on a frame.
For further protection heat with light bulbs and wrap the trunk with
sponge foam. These measures also permit tender cultivars to become
established in borderline locations; established trees are much hardier
than young ones. The upper branches can also be top worked with hardy
Mexican types, which will protect a more tender cultivar on lower
branches, as well as serving as a pollinator. Harvest fruit before the
frost season begins. Cold-damaged fruit turns black. Avocados are often
in bloom at the time of frost and the flowers are killed, but the tree
tends to rebloom. This is especially true of Mexican types.
Pruning: Columnar cultivars require pinching at early age to form a
rounded tree. Others need no training. Current orchard practice avoids
staking. The best results are obtained by fencing the tree with plastic
mesh for the first two to three years. Container and dwarf trees will
need constant staking. The skirts of avocado trees are sometimes trimmed
to discourage rodents, otherwise the trees are usually never pruned.
Branches exposed to sun by defoliation are extraordinarily susceptible
to sunburn and will surely die. Such branches should always be
whitewashed. It is better to avoid any pruning. Most cultivars are
ill-adapted to espalier. They are too vigorous. Avocado fruit is
self-thinning.

Propagation: Desired clonal rootstocks can be be propagated by a method
known as the etiolation technique. The largest seed are planted in
gallon cans and the seedlings are then grafted to a root rot tolerant
clonal scion. When the stem of the graft reaches about 1/4 inch in
diameter, the top is cut off leaving a whorl of buds just above the
graft. A 4 inch band of black tar paper is formed into an extension of
the can and filled with vermiculite and placed in a dark box with high
temperature and humidity. When growth is some 3 - 4 inches above the
vermiculite, the plant is removed into the light where the upper portion
quickly assumes a green color. The tar paper collar is removed, the
shoot is severed from the seed and then placed in flats where the
cuttings are rooted in the conventional manner. Any seed may also be
used for rootstock, but Mexican types make the strongest growth and are
the most often used. Plant cleaned seeds as soon as they are ripe. The
seedling plants are ready to bud the following year. Budding is done in
January, when suitable buds are available. Larger stocks are worked by
bark grafts in the spring. Scions are collected Dec - Jan after the buds
are well-formed. Paint and cover the graft with a moistened plastic bag
and place a vented paper bag over the whole.
Pests and diseases: Rats and squirrels will strip the fruit. Protect
with tin trunk wraps. Leaf-rolling caterpillars (Tortrix and Amorbia)
may destroy branch terminals. Avocado Brown Mite can be controlled by
powdered sulfur. Six-spotted Mite is very harmful; even a small pop
ulation can cause massive leaf shedding. A miticide may be required if
natural predators are absent. Snails can be a problem in California.
Two fungi and one virus cause more damage than any pests. Dothiorella (
Botryosphaeria ribis) canker infects the trunk, causing dead patches
that spreads to maturing fruit, causing darkened, rancid smelling spots
in the flesh. Flesh injury begins after harvest and is impossible to
detect on outside. Mexican types are immune to trunk cankers but the
fruit is not. The disease is rampant near the coast and has no
economical control. Root Rot (Phytophthora cinnamomi) is a soil-borne
fungus that infects many plants, including avocados. It is a major
disease problem in California. Select disease-free, certified plants and
avoid planting where avocados once grew or where soil drainage is poor.
The disease is easily transported by equipment, tools and shoes from
infected soils. Once a tree is infected (signs include yellowing and
dropping leaves), there is little that can be done other than cut back
on water. Sun Blotch is a viral disease that causes yellowed streaking
of young stems, mottling and crinkling of new leaves and occasional
deformation of the fruit. It also causes rectangular cracking and
checking of the trunk, as if sunburned. It has no insect vector but is
spread by use of infected scions, contaminated tools and roots grafted
with adjacent trees. It is important to use virus-free propagating wood.

Harvest: The time of harvest depends upon the variety. Commercial
standards requires fruit to reach 8% oil content before harvesting.
Mexican types ripen in 6 - 8 months from bloom while Guatamalan types
usually take 12 - 18 months. Fruits may continue enlarging on the tree
even after maturity. Purple cultivars should be permitted to color fully
before harvest. Guatamalan types can be stored firm, at 40 - 50¡ F. for
up to six weeks. Mexican types discolor quickly and require immediate
consumption.
Miscellaneous: Leaf and seed extracts have been used for a variety of
medical application, including treatment of diarrhea and dysentery and
as an antibiotic.

CULTIVARS

Anaheim:
Origin Otto Keup, Anaheim, 1910. Guatamalan. Tree columnar, productive.
Fruit very large, to 24 oz., elongated glossy green, seed small, oil
15%. Tenderest of cvs. for coast only. To 32¡ F. Season July.
Bacon:
Origin James Bacon, Buena Park,1954. Hybrid. Tree broad, productive.
Fruit small to medium, to 12 oz., round-ovoid, smooth green. Flesh only
fair, almost colorless,seed cavity molds rapidly. Hardy for Bay Area,
Central Valley. To 25¡ F. Season December.
Creamhart:
Origin Orton Englehart, Escondido,1969. Hybrid. Seedling of Reed. Tree
open, upright, branching. Fruit medium, to 14 oz., skin green flesh
extraordinarily pale,buttery, nearly fiberless. Not alternate bearing.
To 30x F.Season April - July.
Duke:
Origin Bangor (Oroville), 1912.Tree vigorous, open, resists wind. Fruit
small, 12 oz., elongated pyriform, waxy green, skin paper-thin. Flesh
excellent, oil 21%.Seeds commonly used for rootstocks, resist root rot.
Extraordinarily hardy, recovers quickly from freeze, to 22¡ F. Season
October
Fuerte:
Origin Atlixco, Mexico, intro. Carl Schmidt, 1911. Hybrid. Tree open,
spreading, tall. Fruit large to very large, 16 oz., elongated pyriform,
skin dark green with numerous small raised pale spots, waxy bloom, skin
thin. Flesh good, oil 18%, seed medium. Formerly standard cv. of
California industry. Tends to bear in alternate years, unproductive near
coast or in north. To 26¡ F. Season December.
Ganter:
Origin Albert Rideout, Whittier, 1905. Mexican. Tree tall, spreading,
open. Fruit small, to 8 oz., long pyriform, skin paper-thin, pale waxy
green. Flesh good, oil 18%. Oldest avocado cv. in California. Quite
hardy, for Central Valley floor and far north. To 23¡ F. Season October.
Gwen:
Origin Riverside, Robert Whitsell, 1982, patented. Seedling of Hass.
Tree dwarf, to 14 ft., low vigor. Fruit small, to 8 oz., a Hass look
alike, elongated green, flesh good. Most productive of dwarf avocados,
best dwarf for outdoor use, also for containers, greenhouse. Not hardy,
to 30¡ F. Season February - October.
Hass:
Origin Rudolph Hass, La Habra Heights, 1926. Seedling of Lyon.
Guatamalan. Tree rather open, not tall. Fruit medium, to 12 oz.,
pyriform, skin thick, pebbled, coppery purple. Flesh good, oil 19%, seed
fairly small. Currently the standard of the industry. To 26¡ F. Season
July.
Jim:
Origin John Reinecke, San Diego, 1939. Hybrid. Tree upright. Fruit small
to medium, to 10 oz., olive green, with long neck, oil 12%. To 26¡ F.
Season June.
Lula:
Origin George Cellon, Miami, 1919. West Indian. Tree dense, broad,
prolific. Fruit round, slightly pyriform, to 20 oz., slightly rough
glossy green, oil 12%. Only West Indian type recommended for California,
rather hardy, to 28¡ F. Season April.
Lyon:
Origin R. Lyon, Hollywood, 1908. Central American. Tree columnar, slow
growing, difficult to propagate, often scion incompatible. Fruit
commonly over 24 oz., dark glossy green, rough, pyriform, oil 21%. High
quality. Tender, to 30¡ F. Season April.
Mexicola:
Origin Coolidge, Pasadena, 1910. Mexican. Tree tall and spreading,
vigorous. Fruit small, 5 oz., round pyriform, skin paper-thin, purplish
black, waxy bloom. Flesh highest quality, seed very large. Hardiest cv.
known, seedlings useful as rootstocks in far north. Recovers rapidly
from freeze. Defoliated at 20¡ F, trunk killed at 17¡ F. Season
September.
Mexicola Grande:
Seedling selection of Mexicola. Mexican. Tree tall and spreading similar
to Mexicola. Fruit 15% - 25% larger than Mexicola and somewhat rounder
in shape with better seed/flesh ratio. Skin paper-thin, purple-black.
High quality flesh with high oil content. Hardy to about 18x F.
Murrieta:
Green Origin Colima, Mexico, intro. by Juan Murrieta, 1910. Hybrid. Tree
slow growing, easily trained. Fruit large, to 18 oz., oblate, green,
resembling Fuerte. Flesh exceptional, oil 18%. Only cv. readily
adaptable to espalier. For coast and intermediate. To 27¡ F. Season
September.
Nabal:
Origin Antigua, Guatemala, intro. by F.W. Popenoe, 1917. Tree dense,
columnar. Fruit handsome, large pyriform, to 17 oz., green, skin
resembles Fuerte. Flesh exceptionally high quality, oil 16%. Young trees
require pinching to force low branching. Tends to bear alternate years.
To 27¡ F. Season July.
Pinkerton:
Origin John D. Pinkerton, Saticoy, 1972, patented. Guatamalan. Tree
dense, productive. Fruit variable in size, 7 to 12 oz., skin thick,
pebbled, green. To 30¡ F. Season November.
Queen:
Origin Antigua, Guatemala, intro. by E.E. Knight, 1914. Guatamalan. Tree
broad. Fruit exceptionally large, to 24 oz., elongated, purple, flesh
excellent, oil 13%. Fairly hardy for large cv., worth trying in Bay
Area. To 26x; F. Season August.
Puebla:
Origin Atlixco, Mexico, intro. by Carl Schmidt, 1911. Mexican. Tree
broad, high branching. Fruit beautiful, medium to large, to 18 oz.,
ovoid, skin thin, lacquered maroon purple. Flesh excellent, oil 20%.
Least hardy Mexican type, to 29¡ F. Season December.
Reed:
Origin James S. Reed, Carlsbad, 1948. Hybrid. Tree columnar. Fruit
large, to 15 oz., round, skin thick, pebbled, black. Flesh good. To 30¡
F. Season August.
Rincon:
Origin Carlsbad, Sam Thompson, 1944. Hybrid. Tree small. Fruit small to
medium, 10 oz., green, resembling Fuerte. Flesh good. For coast, Santa
Barbara and Ventura. To 27¡ F. Season January.
Ryan:
Origin Albert Rideout, Whittier, 1927. Hybrid. Tree low, spreading.
Fruit medium, to 14 oz., elongated, otherwise resembles Hass, skin
thick, pebbled, purple. Flesh good, oil 25%. For Inland Empire, Bay
Area. To 26¡ F Season August.
Spinks:
Origin E. Bradbury, Bradbury, 1911. Hybrid. Tree spreading. Fruit
medium, to 15 oz., round with small neck, tangelo shaped. Lacquered,
coppery purple, outstanding flavor, oil 16%. To 27¡ F. Season April.
Topa Topa:
Origin E.S. Thatcher, Ojai,1912. Mexican. Tree columnar, vigorous. Fruit
handsome, elongated pyriform, small to medium, 8 oz., smooth dark purple
with white waxy bloom. Skin paper-thin. Flesh rather poor, oil 15%, seed
elongated. Seedlings commonly used for rootstocks. Hardy, for far north.
To 23¡ F.
Whitsell:
Origin Robert Whitsell, Riverside,1982, patented. Hybrid. Hass seedling.
Tree dwarf, to 12 feet, low vigor. Fruit small, 6 oz., elongated Hass
look alike. Flesh good. Bears in alternate years. For containers and
greenhouse only, not hardy. To 30¡ F. February to October.
Wurtz (syn. Littlecado):
Origin Roy Wurtz, Encinitas, 1935. Hybrid. Tree prostrate, difficult to
train, low vigor. Fruit dark green, medium, to 10 oz. For containers and
greenhouse. To 26¡ F. Season July.
Zutano:
Origin R.L. Ruitt, Fallbrook,1926. Hybrid. Tree columnar. Fruit small to
medium, to 10 oz. elongated smooth green, resembles Fuerte but inferior,
has fibers. Hardy for Bay Area, Central Valley. To 25¡ F. Season
November.

Extending Christmas Joy with a Poinsettia!

2009-12-06T06:12:00.000-08:00

Image via Wikipedia

The poinsettia combines red and green, the colors of Christmas, and if you care for yours carefully it can extend the holiday cheer well into the new
year.

Since the poinsettia was first known in the 16th century it has been
associated with Christmas.

A tradition that comes from Mexico, says a poor girl, Pepita, was saddened
because she could not afford a good gift to take to the Christ child on
Christmas Eve. She and her cousin, Pedro, walked together to the chapel for
services. Pedro told his cousin, “I am sure, Pepita, that even the most humble
gift, if given in love, will be acceptable in his eyes.” As they neared the
chapel Pepita saw some weeds growing alongside the road. These would be her gift
for Christ, she decided. She made a small bouquet with them. Despite Pedro’s
reassurances, she still thought the weeds were inadequate.
Pepita and Pedro went into the chapel. As Pepita walked to the altar she
thought of what Pedro had told her. She lay down the weeds at the scene of the
nativity. The legend says they suddenly bloomed into bright red. It was a
miracle, other worshipers thought.

“Flowers of the Holy Night”

The plants became known as “Flowers of the Holy Night.” Since then every year
around Christmas, the plants have shown bright red bracts—the colorful leaflike
parts of the poinsettia that look like petals. “Flowers of the Holy Night” were
then known as Euphorbia Pulcherrima (meaning the most beautiful Euphorbia).

An American diplomat was responsible for the poinsettia coming to America and
becoming part of the Christmas tradition. Joel Robert Poinsett was the first
American minister to Mexico. Poinsett, who was interested in botany, came across
the plant and was enchanted by it. In 1828 he went back to the United States,
bringing some of the plants that eventually were named for him.
Poinsett gave specimens of the plant to friends and botanical gardens. Robert
Bruist ran a nursery and grew poinsettias propagated from a sample he had
received. Since then it has been a part of Christmas in America. In 1836,
Euphorbia Pulcherrima’s name was changed to poinsettia, to honor the man who introduced it to the United States. After Poinsettia died, Congress designated
December 12 as National Poinsettia Day.

Deciding What Kind
to Buy

Although poinsettias bring cheer, they are not without problems. First you
must decide what kind of poinsettia to buy. Then you must care for you
plant.

There are more than 100 kinds of poinsettias. Colors include reds, whites,
pinks, peaches, stripes and marbles. They have names associated with
Christmas—plum pudding, holly point, jingle bells and snowberry.

Here’s what to look for. The plant should have firm stems. There should be
green foliage along the stem from the plant clear to the soil line. And the
colors should be rich and bold with stiff bracts that are fully extended. Touch
the soil. It should be moist. Look for plants that have neither very wet nor
very dry soil. Too much or too little soil means a poor plant that may not last
long.

Check if bracts are missing or drooping. If so, the plant is unhealthy. Don’t
buy it. Also stay away from poinsettias that are wilted or have little leaf
coverage.

How Do You Take Care of It?

Now that you have chosen your poinsettia you must start caring for it. Not
when you get if home--before you walk out of the store with the plant. The
temperature change from inside to outside can endanger this plant which
originated in a tropical area. Put a loose shopping bag over the plant so
it will not suffer a severe drop in temperature. Leave that bag on the
poinsettia until you get it safely into your home.

Poinsettias are delicate and sensitive. They thrive in warm and humid
surroundings. In the daytime, the best temperature is between 68 and 70 degrees.
At night they can stand a drop to 65 degrees. The plants should be kept away
from heating sources, drafty areas and any other places where the temperature
can change suddenly. The plant will lose bracts if it undergoes wide
fluctuations in temperature.

Give It Light

Your poinsettia needs a lot of light, but not too bright. Put the plant near
a window where the sun can come in for about six hours each day filtered through
a sheer curtain or something else that will soften the sunlight.

You need to watch the amount of water the plant gets very carefully. Feel the
soil once a day. It needs to be moist—not overly wet and not overly dry. Put the
plant in a pot with drainage holes in the bottom to let the excess water flow
out. The wrong amount of water—either too much or too little—can damage the
poinsettia’s roots and cause wilting and loss of bracts. Either of these can
cause the plant to die.

After the blooming season the poinsettia needs fertilizer. This gives added
vitality. Use an all-purpose fertilizer. But be sure not to apply it before the
blooming season ends.
Poinsettias are delicate and
sensitive. But they can be healthy and beautiful well beyond the Christmas
season. All that is needed is the proper care!

About the Author: Angela Lytle is a self-employed mother of four and
publisher of Christmas Decorations Online a website that features holiday decorations from easy to use Artificial Christmas Trees for your home that will last for years to colorful Outdoor Christmas Lights to brighten up your holiday display.

Christmas Tips

2009-11-01T05:53:00.000-08:00

Image by Getty Images via Daylife

Preserving Holly:
Soak your holly in this mixture:
(For preserving.)
1 cup glycerine
2 cups boiling water
Green food colorings.
Then soak again in this mixture:
(to seal in moisture )
4 cups water
1 cup floor wax.

Keep your tree fresh:

To help the tree absorb water better, cut an inch off the trunk, above the last cut.

Place the tree in a stand with a lot of water. It could absorb up to a gallon in the first day. Check the water level frequently and add water as necessary.

Never allow it to dry out or it'll shed it's needles prematurely.

Never place your tree near a heat source of any kind. This is extremely dangerous and will increase the chances of early needle loss.

Remember to always turn your Christmas tree lights off when leaving the house or when going to sleep.

Christmas Potpourri:
6 Cinnamon Sticks
Several Pine Cones
2 cups of Dried Sage
1 cup of whole Cloves
2 cups of Dried Rosemary
Grated (dried) Orange Peel
Allspice (whole or ground)
1 cup of Balsam Fir Needles
20 drops of Winterberry OIL
2 cups of Red Juniper Berries

Recipe for FIREPROOFING YOUR TREE:
Mix the following ingredients into a gallon of water then pour into a spray bottle and spray the entire tree.
Pour remaining solution into the trees water supply.
1 cup ammonium sulphate
1/2 cup boric acid
2 tablespoons borax

Tree Disposal:
A great idea for tree disposal after the festivities have come to an end, is to place your tree in your yard.

Mix birdseed, bread crumbs and suet into peanut butter then spread it on the tips of the branches of your tree.

The birds will love you and the tree can stay in your yard until spring.

Several communities also have tree pickup programs. For a small fee they will collect your tree then chip it themselves.

Bulbs Provide Easy Perennial Color

2009-09-06T07:13:00.000-07:00

Image via Wikipedia

Bulbs are some of the easiest of flowers to grow in our landscapes. They provide years of enjoyment and add seasonal beauty like few other plants can. Now is the time to plant bulbs if you want to enjoy the fragrance, color, and beauty of their blooms next spring and summer.

Some bulbs, such as the standard tulips and hyacinths, for example, are best used as annuals because they tend not to naturalize in our warm southern climate. These are "one-shot" bulbs for us. Others are dependable perennials, returning each year out of nowhere to delight us again. I am personally a little partial to these naturalizing wonders.

Here are some tips to help you get off to a successful start with bulbs in your southern garden.

Bulbs for Naturalizing

Daffodils are a southern tradition like few other bulbs. A late-winter drive through the country past those old abandoned homesteads will give you a clue why. The house is gone, the chimney is crumbling, the landscape is overgrown by brush, but the daffodils are going stronger than ever! I have found many types of daffodils to be dependable and only a few that seem to fade away over a few years. Veteran gardeners in the area can tell you which ones do best in your particular soil and climate.

Other bulbs that have naturalized well for me include Dutch iris (a bulb-type iris), grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum), hardy gladiolus (Gladiolus byzantinus), lady tulip (Tulipa clusiana), hardy amaryllis (Hippeastrum x Johnsonii), oxblood lily (Rhodophiala bifida), pink magic lily (Lycoris squamigera), red spider lily (Lycoris radiata), and summer snowflake (Leucojum aestivum).

Selecting the Best Bulbs

It is important to choose healthy, quality bulbs. Second-rate bulbs produce second-rate flowers. Quality bulbs will produce flowers the first year after planting, as the blooms are already formed in the bulbs when you purchase them. Select bulbs that are large for their species and firm. I try to shop or order early while the selection is best.

Planting

Before planting bulbs, I work a few inches of compost into the soil. Slightly raised planting beds are worth the extra effort in the south, as our rainfall often comes in mini deluges! Bulbs can be a bit picky about their planting depth. When in doubt plant them at a depth of 3 times the width of the bulb. In sandy soil, set bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower. I usually mix a small handful of bone meal in the soil beneath each bulb. Then I mulch the area well with leaves and pine needles to discourage weed competition.

Then I go on my way and forget about them. They'll make their sudden debut in their appointed season with a surprising display of their own unique brand of beauty.

Water Wisdom

2009-08-01T09:36:00.000-07:00

Image via Wikipedia

Rising temperatures mean our gardens are getting thirsty. Thankfully we've had plenty of rain lately in Texas, delaying the inevitable dance of the hoses I do every summer in my yard and garden. Dragging hoses is great exercise and offers hours of quiet, mindless opportunities to contemplate life or just daydream.

Believe it or not, I actually find something therapeutic about standing in the garden with a sprayer pistol in hand watering the garden. Some of my most relaxing and creative thinking has come at the end of a garden hose. It's even better than a long ride through the countryside! And with all those new-fangled, multi-nozzle options, who can resist?

Despite these advantages, I realize that some gardeners may not appreciate the summer sport of hand watering as much as I do. Plus unless you really spend some time at it, hand watering often does not provide the deep soaking plants need. It takes time for the water to soak in and wet the soil deeply. So if you approach watering like a "one minute manager," you'd better consider another approach.

Last summer I installed some drip irrigation lines to save water and reduce leaf wetting, which promotes disease. Drip systems are now commonplace in gardens and landscapes. I found the system I put together quite easy to install and very effective. I plan on adding more lines this summer to convert more of the garden to drip. But don't worry. I'll always keep a little area for hand watering. I'd hate to work myself out of a job!

I have a few garden beds that are not in production now that the spring crops are done. Most of these will get a good coating of composted manure or other decomposed organic matter. By late summer, they will be ready for fall planting. Other areas are going to be planted with southern peas. These will make a good crop this summer, but are mainly planted to build the soil. The roots of these legumes add nitrogen to the soil. After harvest, I'll mow the vines to the ground and rototill the shredded remains into the soil.

Fried Green Tomatoes

2009-07-05T06:35:00.000-07:00

Image by Ikayama via Flickr

Much success in growing tomatoes can be attributed to use of a few proven techniques. Choosing a variety that has proven to be a true performer in your local area should be top of your list. You can't go wrong asking a local vegetable gardener or someone with a stall at a local farmer's market.

Now is the time to start tomatoe plants indoors ready to be planted out after the last frost. Start saving your eggshells as well, if you don't know why read on!

Use the best soil available to grow the tomato crop. Clay and sandy soils can be improved by working in 2 to 3 inches of compost, peatmoss, or other forms of organic matter in the top 6 to 9 inches of soil. Lime and fertilizer should be added according to instructions. Lime will help reduce nutrient imbalances, particularly with calcium and help control the blossom end rot problem that occurs so frequently on tomatoes. I always saved the shells from eggs believe it or not, and they prevented any deficiency.

Tomato plants should be spaced 1 1/2 to 2 ft apart in the row and 3 to 4 ft between rows. The planting hole should be deep enough to allow the top of a peat pot to be covered with one inch of soil. If peat pot is exposed to the air, it will act like a wick and rapidly dry out the root ball, causing stunting or death of the plant.

If the transplant is tall and leggy at time of planting, the trench planting method should be used. To trench plant a tomato plant, dig a horizontal trench rather than a hole for each plant. Next, remove all of the leaves from the plant except the top leaf cluster (4 to 5 leaves). Then lay the plant on its side in the trench and cover the root system and bare stem up to the top leaf cluster with 2 to 3 inches of soil. Firm the soil over the plant. Be sure not to press the soil too firmly around the stem where it comes out of the soil, as the stem may break.

Tomato plants should be staked or caged shortly after planting. Generally, staking produces larger tomatoes but less quantity than caging. A common 6-ft tomato stake may be purchased from many garden centers. The stake should be driven in the soil about one ft deep, 3 to 5 inches from the plant. Be sure to avoid driving the stake on the root side of plants that have been trench planted. Trench planted tomatoes should be staked immediately after planting while the location of the buried stem is fresh in mind. Use a strip of cloth, nylon stocking, or heavy string to tie the plant to the stake.

Tomato cages may be made by using a 5 1/2 foot length of concrete reinforcing wire. The wire will form a circle 18 to 20 inches in diameter. The bottom horizontal ring of the wire cage should be cut off so that the ends can be pushed into the ground. After setting the cage in place over the tomato plant, drive 2 or 3 stakes around the outside edge of the cage to give it extra support.

Side dress tomato plants with 2 to 3 Tbsp. per plant of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 after the plants have started to set fruit and 4 to 6 weeks thereafter throughout the growing season. Keep the side dressing material 4 to 6 inches from the plant's stem to avoid fertilizer burn. Make sure you don't use any other fertilizer such as 20-20-20 as you will get lot's of leaves and few fruit.

It is important to make sure the tomatoes receive sufficient water during the season. The soil should be soaked 6 to 8 inches deep at 7-day intervals. Mulches such as wheat straw or composted leaves around the tomato plants will prove to be a real asset in conserving soil moisture during the fiery Alberta heat of July and August.

Ingredients

* 4 large green tomatoes

* 2 eggs

* 1/2 cup milk

* 1 cup all-purpose flour

* 1/2 cup cornmeal

* 1/2 cup bread crumbs

* 2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

* 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

* 1 quart vegetable oil for frying

Directions

1
Slice tomatoes 1/2 inch thick. Discard the ends.

2
Whisk eggs and milk together in a medium-size bowl. Scoop flour onto a plate. Mix cornmeal, bread crumbs and salt and pepper on another plate. Dip tomatoes into flour to coat. Then dip the tomatoes into milk and egg mixture. Dredge in breadcrumbs to completely coat.

3
In a large skillet, pour vegetable oil (enough so that there is 1/2 inch of oil in the pan) and heat over a medium heat. Place tomatoes into the frying pan in batches of 4 or 5, depending on the size of your skillet. Do not crowd the tomatoes, they should not touch each other. When the tomatoes are browned, flip and fry them on the other side. Drain them on paper towels.

Makes 4 servings

---------------------------------------

Ingredients

* 1/3 cup bread crumbs

* 1/2 teaspoon white sugar

* 1/4 teaspoon salt

* 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

* 1/4 cup vegetable oil

* 1 pound green tomatoes, sliced 1/2 inch thick

Directions

1
Stir together bread crumbs, sugar, salt and pepper.
2
Coat tomatoes in the crumb mixture.
3
Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Fry tomatoes for 2 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.
Makes 4 servings

Fried' Green Tomatoes

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

4 large green tomatoes cut horizontally into 1/2" thick slices

1 egg white -- beaten w/ 2 T. water

Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. In a shallow dish, combine cornmeal, bread crumbs, paprika, salt, pepper and cayenne, if desired; set aside.

Lightly coat a baking sheet with vegetable cooking spray; set aside. Dip each tomato slice in egg white mixture, then dredge in cornmeal-bread crumb mixture to coat. Place slices in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. Spray tops of slices with vegetable cooking spray.

Bake 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese during last 5 minutes of baking if desired. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

Summer Gardening

2009-06-07T06:41:00.000-07:00

Our southern gardens are once again in transition. The first transition was when danger of frost passed and we began to plant warm-season veggies and flowers. Now the weather is moving from warm to hot. That means the cool-season plantings such as broccoli are almost all done and wimpier warm-season flowers such as Dianthus and petunias will soon look like they were blasted with a welding torch.

Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash, beans, and other mild-weather veggies are in their prime right now. They're ripening fast and keeping us picking every day to stay ahead of their feverish pace. But, when the summer temperatures rise a bit further, tomatoes will stop setting fruit (except perhaps for the cherry types), and even squash, cucumbers, and beans will do little in the way of producing. It'll be time to pull them out. By fall, they will be the stars again. In the mean time, I can't bear looking at a bear patch of dirt all summer, so I'm planting some summer-tough veggies and flowers in my garden.

Some of my favorite heat-loving vegetables include okra, sweet potato, vegetable amaranth, Malabar greens, water spinach, winter squash (including pumpkin), and southern peas. All these can be planted now if you haven t done so already.

Cool-season flower beds are replaced with heat-tolerant scaevola, Zinnia angustifolia, Blackfoot daisy, Lantana, Pentas, Esperanza, hyacinth bean, cigar plant, Gomphrena, Mexican petunia, and selected salvias. These plants laugh at the sultry summer sauna as long as we provide them a little water to keep them going.

This is also the season to keep that mulch replenished and make sure the plants as well as ourselves get a good drink of water to keep us perked up and healthy. With a little work now, you can reap beautiful dividends all summer long.

Flower Clock

2009-05-23T06:19:00.000-07:00

Make a Clock with Flowers Who needs a watch when you can tell time with flowers? No, you don't need to wear a corsage on your wrist. If you plant a flower clock in your yard, you can look out the window and know the hour at almost any time of day.

The flower clock was developed by Carolus Linnaeus, a Swedish botanist. Linnaeus was a professor at the University of Uppsala, and in his studies he noticed that the flowers of different plants open and close at certain times each day. In 1748 he decided to plant a flower clock, and those who visited could look at it and tell what hour it was.

You could plant such a clock, too. First you'll need to select some flowers that open and close at different times. Try to find plants that grow well in your area, ones that flower at the same time of year. Below is a list of popular plants whose blossoms open and close at specific hours.

What to Do: Make a small circle (about a foot to eighteen inches in diameter) in some outdoor soil. Plant the flowers in order around the outside of the circle so you can read them like a clock's face. When they bloom, you'll have your own flower clock. But get moving-your botanical clock is ticking!

*morning glories and wild roses open: 5:00-6:00 a.m.

*dandelions open: 7:00-8:00 a.m.

*African daisies open: 8:00-9:00 a.m.

*gentians open: 9:00-10:00 a.m.

*California poppies open: 10:00-11:00 a.m.

*morning glories close, goatsbeard opens: noon

*four o'clocks open: 4:00 p.m.

*California poppies close : 4:00-5:00 p.m.

*evening primroses and moonflowers open: 6:00 p.m.

*daylilies and dandelions close: 8:00-9:00 p.m.

*flowering tobacco opens: 9:00-10:00 p.m.

*night-blooming cereus opens: 10:00 p.m.-2:00 a.m.

If it's too late in the summer to plant in your region, please keep this idea for next spring.

May Gardening to do List

2009-04-21T17:28:00.000-07:00

1 Repot crowed house plants, move to a spot on your patio or under a large shade tree for the summer. Guard against burning the foliage-dont' move them directly into full sun.

2. St. Augustine lawns will likely begin to show chinch bug damage during late May.

3. Fertilize: Vegetables monthly, flowering annuals monthly; trees and shrubs twice a year; lawns every 10-12 weeks.

4. Early spring annuals such as pansies and calendulas will soon fade with summer's heat. Clean out the beds and plant summer flowering annuals.

5. This is an excellent time to propagate your favorite chrysanthemums from cuttings. As soon as the cutting are rooted, dig up the parent plant and discard.

6. Work rain-compacted soil around plants and flower beds to provide aeration. Use shallow cultivation to prevent root damage. The use of a good mulch will prevent soil compacting, eliminate the need for cultivation, greatly reduce weed growth, and cut down on watering.

7. Continue to watch for aphids, thrips, red spider mite, caterpillars, white fly, leaf rollers, and scale.

8 Complete pruning of climbing roses to insure a good supply of new wood for next year's flower formation.

9. Continue to spray roses for black spot and mildew control.

10. Pinch back leggy bedding plants to encourage side shoots. Pinching stops the terminal growth, thus resulting in bushier plants and more flower buds.

11. Caladium bulbs can be planted anytime this month.

12 Check your lawn mower blade. Dull blades can cause a brownish discoloration of the stems and leaves shortly after cutting.

13. Weeds will soon invade a lawn that is suffering from lack of moisture. A thorough, deep soaking of the lawn every week is better than frequent light watering.

So Many Bloomin' Things To Do

2009-03-16T07:01:00.000-07:00

These warm spring days are really great for gardening. Our plants are in high gear during this transition from winter to summer in the south. Cool-season plants love it because it is not too hot, but it's warm enough for warm-season plants to really take off. This makes for our busiest season.

Before planting it's important to remember a plant's preferred exposure to the sun. When the blasting heat of summer arrives in the south, shade lovers (and heat haters) will melt if not given a break from the sun. Likewise sun lovers refuse to bloom up a storm when tucked away from their place in the limelight!

We've been planting flowers for cutting all week in our garden. Another succession planting of gladiolus and a sowing of tall zinnias went in to keep their flowers coming this summer. I really enjoy growing cut flowers in our garden. With a broad mix of species, there is always something to bring in and put on the table. When we go over to friends for dinner, a take-along bouquet is a welcome surprise.

Each season I love to experiment with lots of new varieties. That's just part of the fun of gardening. However, I also always hedge my bet with some "old faithfuls", those proven plants that I know won't let me down. That way, if some things don't make it I still have a good-looking garden.

That's why in our new garden beds we included old favorites such as Firebush (Hamelia patens), Esperanza (Tecoma stans), a few perennial hibiscus, and some Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha). These are but a few of those tough performers that will carry us through no matter how hot the summer gets here.

Hope you are enjoying this great spring season in your garden.

Bugs

2009-02-16T06:26:00.000-08:00

A few species, such as the fascinating Hickory Horned Devil, really catch the attention of southern gardeners each fall. Other common late-season insects are fall webworms and bark lice, with their silky strands like "angel hair" covering the bark of trees. The other day I was thinking about the different reactions to insects when one of my daughters and a friend showed up holding some insects they had captured in their bare hands. Totally unsqueamish, they were displaying their prizes for all to see. To them bugs are fascinating mini-robots. They are aware of the few "don't touch" creepy-crawlies but know the rest are not to be feared.

There are a number of misconceptions when it comes to controlling insects around the home and landscape. For some gardeners, the only good bug is a dead bug! Actually less than 3 percent of all insects are considered pests. The rest are either beneficial or harmless. Insects are part of a complex and interrelated ecosystem. A spray applied to destroy a pest may well be destroying beneficials as well. Remember that when you kill a beneficial insect you inherit its job. While I'll grant you southern gardeners that an insect doing the backstroke in your mint julep is alarming, I assure you the bug is in more distress than you! We live in an environment full of bugs and it is unrealistic to think it can be made "bug free" without serious consequences.

Another misconception is that the presence of a bug on my plant warrants a spray application. Even the presence of a true pest is not enough to warrant taking action to control it. There exists a "threshold level" for various plants and pests at which control is deemed necessary. Minor damage usually does not affect production (fruits and vegetables) or ornamental value. Plants were living with these pests long before we decided to make a garden out of the place and showed up with our spray solutions.

Before resorting to control measures, we need to get help in identifying the suspect. Then determine if and when a spray is needed. In my next column, I'll continue these thoughts on misconceptions about insects and discuss some tips for managing the ones that really warrant control. See you later!

I was visiting with a gardener who was frustrated because he wasn't having any luck controlling an insect problem. It turns out he was using a product not registered for use on that particular insect. Some gardeners use whatever product they happen to have around to control whatever pest happens to be plaguing them.

Using the correct product is important. Pesticides are divided into groups including fungicides (for disease control), insecticides (for insect control), and herbicides (for weed control). Each product has a select group of pests against which it is effective. Additionally, some products prevent insect or disease problems, while others alleviate problems that have already begun. Some products remain effective for weeks after they are applied, while others last only a few hours or less. Certain products are labeled for use on edible plants while others are restricted to ornamentals. Products also differ in terms of toxicity to people, beneficial insects, and various pests. For best results -- and to protect yourself -- select a product that's appropriate for the pest and the plant being attacked. Your County Extension office and local nursery professional are two sources of help for making a good decision. By making an informed decision you can get the most benefit with the least risk.

Another misconception is that "if a teaspoon of pesticide is good, a tablespoon will be better." Failure to apply pesticides in accordance with the label is both illegal and unwise. Using less of the product than recommended can waste time and money, may result in poor control, and can contribute to development of resistance in the pests. Overdosing can burn plants, increase health risk to people and pets, and potentially damage the environment.

A third point of confusion concerns organic (or natural) products. Many gardeners fail to use proper precautions when mixing and applying these products because they assume that "organic" means "safe." Organic products (like their synthetic counterparts) vary greatly in their toxicity to people, pests, and beneficial insects. Nicotine sulfate (an organic product now seldom used) is among the most acutely toxic products available over the counter; rotenone is very toxic to fish; Bacillus thuringiensis or B.t. can unintentionally kill butterfly larvae (caterpillars); and insecticidal soap (not truly organic, but one of the lowest toxicity pest control options) can destroy ladybug and lacewing larvae as well as other soft-bodied beneficials.

Organic controls offer many benefits, such as a tendency to break down quickly in the environment, and they often are the safest option. But, like all products, they must be used with caution and only when necessary.

Remember that your garden is also a zoo. Identifying your pest and using the least toxic strategies to manage pests can help you get the most out of your landscape and garden while reducing the risks to you and your environment.

Yearly Planning

2009-01-24T08:44:00.000-08:00

Take advantage of these winter days to read up on some new varieties to try next spring -- perhaps a great new tomato! I absolutely love the winter season in the south. It brings a welcome break from the heat of summer and just sort of gives you a new start in the garden. When freezes shut down last year's garden, you can get ready to go at it again in a couple of months to create the best garden ever. Winter wipes the slate clean and says, "All right now, lets see what you can really do!"

We gardeners are eternal optimists, always looking for the perfect tomato and that new rose that is the best ever. The very cycle of the seasons feeds the hope of a new year. I often liken our landscaping and gardening to painting with nature. If I don't like the way a garden turns out, or even if I just decide I'd like to try out something new, I can always replant, redesign, and start fresh. A new canvas or a new garden planting, they offer the creative side of us a chance to exercise. Sort of like that Etch-a-sketch we played with as kids. You just wipe the slate clean and start scribbling again!

Tempting New Varieties
Thankfully there are always new plants that we've never grown before and new varieties of ones we have grown for years. I can't imagine a new gardening year with nothing new to try. There must be a million tomato varieties out there, but each year more show up with tempting new features -- color, shape, size, flavor, disease resistance, and the list goes on. I never grow tired of trying out new ones! Even if I did, there are all those wonderful heirlooms that I have yet to discover. Oh my. So many tomatoes, so little time!

Wintertime Soil Preparation
Winter days are great for planning a new garden. This is a good time to prepare the soil for next spring’s garden too. By working in compost now, the soil will be ready for spring planting. I may even work in some leaves, as there are plenty of them this time of year. By next spring they'll be mostly decomposed and ready to do their part in building a great garden soil.
Well better go for now. I've got some searching to do for some inspirational gardening ideas. I may just go curl up with some great garden books, or perhaps a keyboard and mouse!

Designing an Easy-Care Landscape

2009-01-11T06:32:00.000-08:00

Spring fever has arrived in the lower south. This wonderful affliction calls to the gardener deep inside everyone, drawing us outdoors to dig and plant. With a little forethought and planning, we can create landscapes that are both beautiful and easy to maintain in the years to come.

Design With Maintenance in Mind
Keep maintenance at the forefront as you plan your landscape. Make beds large and sweeping. Combine several small beds into a large one to reduce mowing time. Avoid sharp angles. Gradual curves are easier to mow and more aesthetically pleasing to the eye. If you have several trees close together in the lawn, consider creating a large bed around them. This will save time mowing and edging around each trunk and provide a place to toss the leaves as a natural mulch. Install edging to delineate between turf and bed areas. This will prevent St. Augustine and most zoysias from invading.

Start Off Weed Free
Weeds are much easier to deal with before your turfgrass and other landscape plants are in. This is especially true for perennial weeds, such as bermudagrass, nutsedge, wild blackberry vines, and johnsongrass, to name of few of the more notorious invaders. Whether you dig, spray, or combine the two, do all you can to get rid of weeds so you can start with a clean slate.

Choose Easy-Care Plants
Let's face it, some plants, like some people, are just plain high maintenance. Others need just a little help getting established and then do quite well on their own. Slow-growing and dwarf types require less pruning to keep them in bounds. If you plant evergreen shrubs, keep in mind that shearing them into box or other shapes means regular trimming and much more work than maintaining them in a more natural shape.

Choose plants that are adapted to your area and not prone to disease or insect attack. Most types of euonymus, for example, while widely planted, are magnets for powdery mildew and/or scale, and should be avoided.

Annual flowers can keep you busy, planting, fertilizing, deadheading (in some cases), and then pulling them out to replant. To keep an area colorful, you may be making three or more color changes a year. Perennials are a bit less trouble but still need some grooming and feeding. Every so often they may also need dividing to keep them in top shape.

This is certainly not to say that we should avoid flowers ... may it never be! But to minimize maintenance, give some thought to where you plant them so you get maximum effect from minimum effort.

And don't forget ornamental grasses, which are underutilized in our landscapes. They require very little care and they add an attractive feature with the long blades and graceful movement in the wind. Cut them back in late winter and provide a little fertilizer, and you're pretty much done with their maintenance for the year.

Mulch Your Cares Away
Mulching gives a great return on your time. When you lay down a thick layer of mulch, it will hold annual weed seeds at bay for the season. You'll have to water less often, and as the mulch breaks down over a few seasons, nutrients will be released for your plants.

These are a few tips to keep your maintenance chores to a minimum. Just remember: the more elaborate and extensive your landscape, the more likely you are to spend more time out there keeping it in shape. You can have a simple design that is also quite beautiful. So do some planning, looking, and thinking before building a new landscape or revamping an old one. Your time will be well spent.

How to Photograph Flowers

2009-01-06T10:24:00.001-08:00

Image via WikipediaSpring is right around the corner in many parts of the world. For those of us who spent the winter trapped inside, spring means, among other things, an irresistible chance to grab the camera and start capturing the first blooms of the season. Yet, how do you turn those shots of your favorite blooms into something special? Here are some tips on how to take better flower pictures from the world's largest photography school, New York Institute of Photography (NYI).

First, walk around the flower to see how it looks with light coming from different directions. Watch carefully when the light (usually, the sun) is behind the flower, coming toward the camera. Often, the petals will glow with beautiful iridescence. This is called "backlighting" because the light is coming from the back of the subject (in this case, the flower). Backlighting is often the best type of lighting for translucent subjects like petals.

However, don't despair if there is no sun. Gray and overcast days provide great opportunities for flower photography. The lighting is more even and there are no shadows. Rain turns colors more intense. You can even carry a spray bottle to create rain droplets on the sunniest of days. Even night photography is an option. You'll be surprised at how attractive a flower photo can be when illuminated by flash.

Second, to make a flower picture come alive, wait until something adds life to the flower - for example, a bee alights, or a spider crawls into it, or a hummingbird pays a visit. It takes patience, but it pays off if, for example, after you wait a few minutes, a butterfly lands on your flower. Shoot! The picture you get will be great.

Rose Pruning

2009-01-04T11:43:00.000-08:00

It's that time of year again. I am going to redo a article I ran last year.

Rose pruning time is just right around the corner. I am not sure were the below article came from, it has been on my computer for years. But it is very good on rose pruning.

After reading this article go to University of Illinois Our Rose Garden for some good pictures of were and how to cut your roses
Rose Magazine has a good set of rose pruning cuts images.
Also the Marin Rose Society has a good image of rose pruning cuts.

Annual heavy pruning is essential to insure the prolific bloom and long-life of a rose bush.

Explaining the concept of rose pruning without a live bush to demonstrate on is difficult, so let your mind loose to help visualize the following steps in rose pruning.

Pruning of roses is actually done year round. Every time you cut off old blooms and remove twiggy growth you are actually promoting new growth. There are two times a year when you prune more seriously, spring and fall.

You will need the following items:

* a good pair of hand pruners (preferably the scissor type, not anvil type)
* a sharp keyhole saw and large loppers
* a heavy pair of leather gloves
* a pruning compound
* a dull knife.
* a Elmer's glue or shellac.
* a can of lysol for spraying your pruners between each rose bush.

Steps to Pruning Roses - Spring

Spring pruning in South Central is normally done between the third week of February and-the first week of March. (I am in Central Texas we always pruned the Sunday after Valentine Day. If you do not know the best time for your area look at your extension service web site) The length of time taken for a bush to bloom depends on the number of petals in the bloom and how deeply it has been pruned. For multi-petalled roses, the spring blooming can take as long as 60-70 days, while fewer petalled varieties can take 35-40 days. Weather is also a factor in bloom cycles. Cool and warmer temperatures will weather will lengthen these periods cause the soil to heat up faster and blooming to occur sooner.

1. The first step in spring pruning of Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas and Climbing roses is to remove any canes that are dead or just old and non-productive. These canes are usually gray in color and scaley. To prune hybrid tea and grandiflora roses follow certain principles including:
* High pruning for more flowers earlier or low pruning for fewer, bigger flowers later
* Pruning to remove weak and crisscrossing canes
* Removing growth an inch below a canker
* Removal of damaged, dead, or broken canes back to healthy growth
* Removing sucker growth as close as possible to main root.

This pruning will encourage future "basal" breaks which are the life blood of any rose bush. Basal breaks refer to new shoots, soon to be producing canes, which arise from the graft union. These should not be confused with "suckers" which arise from the rootstock below the graft union. Remove all suckers.

2. The next step involves taking a good look at the bud union. If you have any old, dry scaley wood on the union, remove it. Use the dull knife to scrape the bud union to remove the scaley wood. By doing this it will again make it possible for new basal breaks to come about.
3. Beginning to fine tune the pruning, remove all twiggy growth on the remaining canes. (Note: The fine tune pruning on climbing roses should be done after they bloom in the spring.) Try to clean out the middle of the bush as much as possible. This allows for good air circulation to prevent insects and disease.
4. Now you are ready to prune on the good healthy canes. With the early flush of growth on the roses the most important procedure this year is to prune each cane back to a dormant bud. A bud that has already begun growth will continue to grow vigorously and bloom very little. A dormant, non-growing bud will initiate growth after pruning and will produce an abundance of blooms.

One comment always heard is to "prune to an outside bud." The basic technique for most pruning is to cut 1/4 inch above the nearest outward-facing bud with the cut at a 45-degree angle (the higher point above the bud). This means when picking the point on a given cane to cut back to, make sure there is a good bud on the cane facing toward the outside of the plant. This will insure the growth of the new bud is to the outside, therefore keeping the center of the rose bush clear and open for air circulation.

Another guideline in pruning back an individual cane is to cut the cane at the point when the diameter of the cane is the size of a pencil or slightly larger. Because of the need to prune back to a dormant bud, the size of the cane may be larger and the cane length may be shorter.

If old and large canes have been removed to the bud union, it is a good practice to seal these large cuts. This helps prevent insects and diseases from infecting the cuts. Smaller canes in many cases don't need to be sealed. Use some sort of sealing compound such as orange shellac or even Elmer's glue.

5. When pruning is completed remove any old foliage left on the canes.

6. The final product of your pruning should be a rose bush about 18 to 24 inches tall with 4 to 8 canes. Add some fertilizer and regular pest spraying, and that pitiful looking rose bush will soon give you a shower of flowers.

Floribundas are usually not pruned as severely as hybrid teas. Even so, be sure to remove any dead, broken, damaged, or blotched branches back to where the pith, or center of the cane, is white and healthy looking. Next, remove weak, spindly canes, canes growing toward the center of the bush, the weaker of two canes that crisscross, canes that grow out, then up, and suckers, if any. Finally, trim all remaining canes back to one-half their former height.

Miniatures - In the spring it is best to cut miniatures almost down to the ground ( i.e., 2 to 3 inches). Moreover, if they are over three years old it is a good idea to divide them by cutting the whole plant in half or more. Be sure to leave some roots on each division.

Old-Fashioned (Antique) and Shrubs - Remove any dead canes and lightly trim remainder of bush, removing about a third of the growth. Mass blooming is the aim with these roses. Additional light grooming throughout the year is encouraged since everblooming varieties bloom on new wood. Varieties that bloom only once during the season should be pruned AFTER they have bloomed since they bloom on old wood.

General - If the bush is over two years old, cut out one or more of the oldest and largest canes using a keyhole saw. Also, clean off the bud union with a dull knife. Seal any large cuts with Elmer's glue or shellac. Remove debris from beds and any leaves remaining on bush after pruning is completed.

Steps to Pruning Roses - Fall

The fall pruning is lighter than in the spring and consists of removing twiggy and unproductive growth along with any crossing or dead canes. All foliage is left on the bush at this time. Labor Day is a good time to do the fall "grooming."

Climbers are not pruned in the same manner as Hybrid Teas. To encourage growth of more flowering laterals and stimulate production of new canes, you should not cut back long canes unless they are outgrowing the allotted space. Varieties differ in this respect since some will produce new canes from the base each year, while others build up a woody structure and produce long, new canes from a position higher up on the plant. Thus, when pruning, the following practices are recommended:

Everblooming varieties -- Cut back to two or three bud eyes all laterals that bore flowers during the past year. Remove any dead, diseased or twiggy growth. For established plants, oldest canes are removed annually at the base. Remaining canes are repositioned and secured, if necessary. For routine maintenance, remove all spent blooms and cut back to a strong bud eye. Canes are tied in place as they mature. Avoid attempting to do this before the wood matures, as soft tender growth is easily broken off.

Ramblers and once blooming varieties - These types should be pruned after blooming as they will normally bloom on year old wood. Thus, after spring bloom, cut out old, unproductive wood and weak canes.

A good practice is to avoid severe pruning for the first two or three years after planting, as it takes this long for most climbers to mature. During this period, remove all dead and weak canes and spent blooms (in some instances, climbers will bloom very little for the first couple of years). New canes of most climbers should be trained horizontally to encourage the growth of flowering laterals. Strips of old pantyhose make good "ties". Pillar roses will grow and bloom upright.

Summer Care of Roses

Summer is the most important time of the year for continued care of rose bushes. Most people have a tendency to slack off due to an increase in other activities. For bushes to be healthy and productive, they must have water. One to two inches a week is generally recommended. Keep an eye on beds next to a fence or house, even after a good rainfall there is an excellent possibility they will still be dry. Maintain a systematic spray program. To maintain moisture in beds, keep mulch on the beds.

Continual light feeding of roses during the summer months is recommended in this area. if using a granular food, use monthly. During the hottest months, a weaker solution of liquid food may be used.

Christmas Tips

2008-12-07T09:56:00.000-08:00

Preserving Holly:
Soak your holly in this mixture:
(For preserving.)
1 cup glycerine
2 cups boiling water
Green food colorings.
Then soak again in this mixture:
(to seal in moisture )
4 cups water
1 cup floor wax.

Keep your tree fresh:
*To help the tree absorb water better, cut an inch off the trunk, above the last cut.
*Place the tree in a stand with a lot of water. It could absorb up to a gallon in the first day. Check the water level frequently and add water as necessary.
*Never allow it to dry out or it'll shed it's needles prematurely.
*Never place your tree near a heat source of any kind. This is extremely dangerous and will increase the chances of early needle loss.
*Remember to always turn your Christmas tree lights off when leaving the house or when going to sleep.

Christmas Potpourri:
6 Cinnamon Sticks
Several Pine Cones
2 cups of Dried Sage
1 cup of whole Cloves
2 cups of Dried Rosemary
Grated (dried) Orange Peel
Allspice (whole or ground)
1 cup of Balsam Fir Needles
20 drops of Winterberry OIL
2 cups of Red Juniper Berries

Recipe for FIREPROOFING YOUR TREE:
*Mix the following ingredients into a gallon of water then pour into a spray bottle and spray the entire tree.
*Pour remaining solution into the trees water supply.
1 cup ammonium sulphate
1/2 cup boric acid
2 tablespoons borax

Tree Disposal:
*A great idea for tree disposal after the festivities have come to an end, is to place your tree in your yard.
*Mix birdseed, bread crumbs and suet into peanut butter then spread it on the tips of the branches of your tree.
*The birds will love you and the tree can stay in your yard until spring.
*Several communities also have tree pickup programs. For a small fee they will collect your tree then chip it themselves.

November to do List

2008-11-02T05:58:00.000-08:00

1. Prepare beds for roses it be planted in December and January. Order those special rose varieties now for late delivery.

2. Force spring flowering bulbs for indoor flowering.

3. Finish planting all spring flowering bulbs except tulips.

4. Clean annual and perennial beds. Rework annual beds and prepare for spring or fall planting.

5. Continue to practice good garden sanitation. Keep leaves raked up and place on compost pile. Wet thoroughly as you build up the compost pile to hasten decomposition. Turn contents with shovel or spading fork periodically.

6. Annual rye grass will make a good ground cover for a new lawn to hold top soil in place and prevent tracking soil into the house. Sow seed at rate 8-10 pounds/1000 square feet.

7. Large, almost mature, tomatoes can be picked just ahead of the first frost.

8.Fertilize shade trees by deep root placement in holes.

9. Harvest fall vegetables

Bluebonnet FAQ

2008-10-11T06:36:00.000-07:00

1: Q: How to start bluebonnet seeds?

A: The ideal location for planting seeds or plants is sunny. They will
not perform well in an area which receives less than 8 to 10 hours of
direct sunlight. Bluebonnets will thrive in any type of soil that is
well drained. In sticky soil, try building raised beds, 6 inches or
more, and amending the soil with 3 or 4 inches of organic matter. Keep
the soil slightly moist. Once established they become tough,
drought-tolerant natives. The seed must be lightly covered or raked into
the soil before it germinates. Plant in August.

2: Q: When do bluebonnets bloom? Client planning to schedule a bus tour.

A: Peak bloom is in late March and early April; depends on the spring
weather.

3: Q. Last year I used the bluebonnet transplants. They bloomed
beautifully! It is the first time that I have ever succeeded. I let the
plants with seeds dry and shatter. Now I have bluebonnet plants
sprouting in that location. What should I do to preserve these plants
through the summer?

A. Fear not! Nature preserves her species. That is why most of the
bluebonnet seed did not sprout and will lay dormant until this fall when
it is safe to sprout. Unfortunately, those seeds which were "fooled" by
excessive moisture this spring and sprouted will not produce a plant
which can survive the heat of the summer. There are still plenty of seed
remaining to insure a bluebonnet population next fall and beautiful
bloom next spring.

4: Q. Please give instructions on how to plant bluebonnets in a bermuda
grass lawn. Since my lawn doesn't look to good after the drought, I
thought I would plant it to bluebonnets.

A. You must have a bermuda grass or zoysia lawn growing in an area which
receives 8-10 hours of direct sun daily -- St. Augustine lawns DO NOT
qualify. St. Augustine lawns do not go dormant soon enough in the fall
and they begin to regrow too soon in the spring. The overseeding
procedure involves: Aerate the bermuda turf area no later than
Thanksgiving with a soil plug-removing (rather than poking type) aerator
available at rental stores. This is a good cultural practice for
compacted bermuda lawns anyway. Immediately after plugging the lawn
area, sow the scarified bluebonnet seed at the rate of one pound (17,000
seed) per 1000 square feet and rake the area with a lawn broom to evenly
distribute the seed and to make sure some seed fall into the holes
punched by the plugging machine. Not all seed has to be in the plugged
holes since the turf grass surface will be "roughed" enough from the
aerifing process to provide enough soil-seed contact to enable seed
germination. After sowing the scarified seed, thoroughly water the area.
Watering during the winter SHOULD ONLY OCCUR if monthly rainfall is not
received. Fall fertilization can be applied as usual. Competing grassy
winter weeds can be controlled by spraying the planting with
fusilade-containing herbicides such as Ortho Grass-B-Gon. This herbicide
can be sprayed onto bluebonnets and will kill surrounding grass AND NOT
DAMAGE THE BLUEBONNETS which are not grass. If, however, other broadleaf
bluebonnet-like weeds such as henbit or clover begins to over-shadow the
state flower, you may have to intervene with a bit of weed pulling
exercise -- there is no herbicide which will kill other broadleaf weeds
and not kill broad-leaved bluebonnets. Remember, YOU MUST REMOVE (shred
and mow) the large bluebonnet plants IMMEDIATELY after they bloom next
April or you can and will damage the bermuda grass turf. You MUST
realize that this is a new and sophisticated technique of beautifying a
dull, brown bermuda grass lawn -- NOT a technique of insuring a
bluebonnet planting for eternity by allowing plants to remain dying and
ugly until seed are mature in June. Overseeding will occur every fall so
that designs and colors can be altered and bermuda grass turf will not
be damaged (summer green-up of grass will be delayed). This will also
alleviate the necessity of neighborhood petitions to force you to clean
up your "weed" infested lawn!

October to do list

2008-09-22T06:46:00.000-07:00

1.Plant spring flowering bulbs such as Hyacinths, Allium, Snowflakes, Daffodils,jonquils, Narcissus, Rain Lilies, Dutch Iris, Ranunculus, Anemones, Grape Hyacinth, Amaryllis and others.

2. Dig and store Caladium tubers. Store in dry peat or in perlite packed in boxes so that roots do not touch each other. Store in an area where the temperature will not go below 55 degrees to prevent spoilage.

3. Scale insects on broad leafed evergreens such as Camellia, Gardenia, Holly, and Eunoymus can be effectively controlled by spraying with dormant oil, Do not use oil spray if temperature goes above 80 degrees.

4. Purchase started plants of pansies, snapdragons, dianthus, flowering kale, and flowering cabbage for attractive winter and spring color.

5. Check for aphids and caterpillars on fall flowers and leafy vegetables.

6. Clean, sharpen all hand tools and cover all metal parts with a light coat of oil to prevent rust before storing for the winter. A bucket of dry sand plus a cup or two or oil makes an excellent way to clean those yeard tools.

7. Begin a new compost pile using the abundant fall leaves.

8. A final application of fertilizer can be appplied to your lawn early this month if you failed to fertilize in September.

9. Sow ryegrass for a winter green lawn or to prevent erosion of bare soil. Use 8 -10 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet.

Fall Color

2008-09-14T06:12:00.000-07:00

Some of the many Fall Color pages I have found.

Where Do Leaves Get Their Autumn Colors Autumn in the Northeast and Midwest can be a spectacular season of bright blue skies, cool temperatures, and brilliant leaf color.

From the Environmental Education for Kids Why do Leaves Change Color Leaf color comes from pigments. Pigments are natural substances produced by leaf cells. The three pigments that color leaves are:

The USDA Forest Service lists fall foliage information for all National Forest locations. This site also has the answer to "Why do leaves change color?"

Fall Color Cams WeatherMatrix

Autumn Foliage Changes Late September marks the start of autumn and the beginning of color changes in deciduous leaves. This Harvard Forest site explores the topic thoroughly, providing documentation on intensely colored leaves. Photo galleries of leaves and plants that undergo color change are shown, as well as the science behind the color change. Static and time lapse images of New England landscapes display the progression, which is just at its start there.

Why Do Leaves Change Color in the Fall? From Science Made Simple. Explanations appropriate for several grade levels (and teacher, too!). Hands-on activities. Word
scramble. Nice illustrations.

Why Leaves Change Color This one page explanation introduces the biological basis for why leaves turn color and fall in the autumn, from pigmentation changes, to other chemical changes, to the conditions for the best display of colors. Designed for K-12 students, but contains the basics also for beginning undergraduate students. Site by the SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry.

Changing Color Explains in detail what occurs in the leaves.

Chemistry of Autumn Colors Learn about the phenomenon from a scientific perspective.

Leaf Coloration Discussion of pigments and a listing of landscape plants which can be counted on to provide good fall color.

Autumn Colors How Leaves Change Color The "Indian summer" days of autumn, when the days are clear and sunny and the nights cool and crisp, provide an almost irresistible lure to those who enjoy the outdoors.

How does autumn color happen? leaf 1 For years, scientists have worked to understand the changes that happen to trees and shrubs in the autumn.

Why Do Leaves Change Color in the Fall? Includes projects to do with leaves, from the Curious Kids Science Newsletter.

Why Do Leaves Change Colors? Includes a list of which trees' leaves turn which color, and a method for collecting and preserving leaves.

Why Leaves Change Color: The Splendor of Autumn Discuses the chemical changes that take place within leaves.

Why Leaves Change Colors

September's To Do List

2008-08-30T05:56:00.000-07:00

1. Make your selections of spring flowering bulbs as soon as they become available. Don't wait for the close-out bargains, as these are usually dried out and lack the necessary chilling needed for good flower production. Store bulbs in a cool place until ready to plant, preferably about 40 degrees. The refrigerator is an excellent place.

2. Prepare beds for planting springs bulbs so they are ready when you need them.

3. Begin to groom pot plants that have been outdoors this summer. Repot or cut back overgrown plants, groom and fertilizer before brining them inside.

4. Continue insect and disease control sprays on roses if maximum beauty and blooms are desired.

5. Time to plant or to divide and transplant daylilies, bearded iris, Shasta daisies, violets, etc.

6. September marks the beginning of the brown patch season on St. Augustine lawns. Apply PCNB (Terraclor) to those areas of the lawn with past history of brown patch. Also watch other lawn areas and apply control at the first sign of disease occurrence.

7. There is still time to sow Bermuda grass seed and get it established before cold weather. Broadcast one pound of seed per 600 sq ft for best coverage.

8. Fertilize the lawn this month with a fertilizer containing a Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium ration of 3-1-2.

9. Fall flowering annuals and perennials still require plenty of moisture if the flowers are to be attractive. Don't be fooled by the cool night and moderate day temperatures.

10. Clean established garden beds and replenish mulch materials where needed. Remove faded annuals and cut back perennials that have finished flowering.

11. Time to plant cool season vegetables including: Cabbage, cauliflower, onions, spinach, greens, and turnips. Quick maturing crops, such as radishes and lettuce, can be planted. Too late for tomatoes, peppers, and squash.

12. Save major pruning jobs for mid-winter.

13.Bluebonnet and other wildflower seeds can be planted this month.

Roses For Every Landscape

2008-08-20T06:10:00.000-07:00

If you have put off planting roses because you either think they are too much trouble or you don't care for the look of a formal rose garden, then I have some great news for you. Roses are for everyone, everywhere.

There are many great hybrid teas that will produce great cut flowers. However they tend to be among the more high maintenance roses. If you want this type of rose, look for varieties that boast a little disease resistance.

Shrub Roses
My personal favorites are the shrub roses. They do double duty as both great landscape plants and blooming roses. So even when they aren't in bloom, they are attractive in the landscape. Breeders have begun to release a lot of wonderful new shrub roses. Many have excellent disease resistance -- a key trait if you want a low-maintenance rose. Personally I can think of many better things to do on a Saturday morning than mix and spray pesticides, even organic ones!

Climbers
Climbing roses are underutilized in most landscapes. That is too bad because they offer such versatile beauty and bring a vertical element into the garden. Vigorous types are excellent on an arbor or trained along a fence. Some work well trained to a post or pillar. Plant one to cover an arched entryway or train one to a brick or rock wall.

Miniatures
Miniature roses make attractive additions to ornamental beds. They are well adapted to large containers, which means even an apartment dweller can grow roses. Some roses, while not miniatures, are very small statured and do well in a very large container.

Growing Tips
Do a little investigating before you buy a rose. There are many wonderful varieties to choose from with various bloom forms, colors, scents, and degrees of disease resistance. Then take care to provide a home for your new rose where it can thrive.

Give roses lots of sun ... the more the better. If you plant them in a semi-shady spot, they will grow but may not bloom well.

Prepare the soil well and keep it moist. Roses like a soil that is well drained and has lots of compost added. I like to use a "chunky" compost made from bark because it tends to hold up well for a long time. While roses detest poor drainage, they need some dependable soil moisture to perform their best.

Fertilize regularly. Keep the roses growing by feeding them every month or two from spring through late summer. This is especially important for types that repeat bloom throughout the year.

Control pests, diseases, and weeds. If you choose a resistant variety, this will be an easy job. If pests or diseases are allowed to get out of hand, they will weaken the plants and shut down the bloom show. Weeds rob plants of moisture and nutrients. Mulching is the best way to prevent most weed problems.

So don't delay. Fall is the best season to plant roses in the south. Winter also is a good time. With a rose for every landscape, you don't want to miss out on another season of beautiful blooms!

Google Insights for Search

2008-08-13T06:13:00.000-07:00

Google has added a new Search called Insights for Search. A service that is like Google Trends, you can put in any keyword and Google Insights gives you
1. Interest over time
2. 2 different graphs,
3. search terms related to the term,
4. regional interest for the term,
the four above is the search activity around that term around the world.

I have done a search for Gardening
Here are the results http://www.google.com/insights/search/#cat=&q=gardening&geo=&date=&clp=&cmpt=q

Drop by this new search page and have fun.

August Gardening To Do List

2008-08-01T07:25:00.000-07:00

August is the peak of the heat in Austin. Despite higher water bills remember: Water is best summer fertilizer. It's your key to successful gardening. Soak frequently, thoroughly, and deeply.

1. Make a second application of chinch bug control early this month, if needed.

2. Plant pansy and calendula seed for fall and winter color.

3. This is the ideal time to begin planting that fall veritable garden.

4. Start a new compost pile and be ready to collect the leaves as they drop this fall. Be certain to keep moist to speed up decomposition.

5. Plan now for major landscape changes you may need.

July's Gardening To Do List

2008-07-23T06:55:00.000-07:00

1. Water lawns and garden when needed giving a thorough soaking rather than frequent light sprinklings.

2. Fertilize lawn at the same rate suggested in May. Be sure soil is moist before applying then water in well after applying.

3. Check plants for mulch. Replace as needed

4. Keep a close check on recently planted landscape plants. Inadequate root system and drought can be damaging.

5. Watch for and apply early control for summer insects and disease to privent a build up of spread.

6. Check Azaleas and Camellias for iron chrlorosis (pale green leaves, darker green veins). If necessary, use copperas or iron chelate to correct iron deficiency.

7. Sow seeds of the following annuals for fall flower: Marigold, Zinnia, Periwinkle, Petunia, Cosmos, Portulaca, Ageratum.

8. Make the last pinch on early blooming mums by mid-July. Those blooming late in the fall can be given one additional pinch the last of the month. Keep them well watered.

9. Check your lawn mower. With hot weather here, you may want to raise the mower blade to the highest setting.

10.Check junipers and marigolds for red spider mite. The brown, discolored foliage may be due to mite damage. Hold a sheet of white paper below a branch and tap the branch sharply. If the dirt specks start to move, you can be almost certain you have spider mite.

11. To keep hanging baskets looking attractive, soak the baskets in a tub of water every few days in addition to the regular daily watering. This is also a good time to fertilize baskets but never apply fertilizer to dry plants.

12. Divide spring and early summer perennial including daffodils, daylilies, iris, etc., and replant the best clumps. Discard the diseased or damage material, and share any surplus with friends.

13. Low areas in the lawn may be gradually filled with shallow applications of good top soil where needed. Avoid temptation to apply a layer of sandy loam over the entire lawn area just because your neighbor does.

14. Plant spider lilies and fall crocus

15. Seed tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cauliflower, okra, cabbage and brocolli for fall garden.

Poison Ivy Remedies

2008-06-30T07:20:00.000-07:00

Poison Ivy produces a oil called uroshial which is hard to get of the skin. Some remedies are:

Epsom Salts apply with a wet compress to affected areas
Catnip Leaves crush to release juice, which has anti-inflammatory properties
Bicarbonate of soda apply directly to affected areas or make a paste with water
Chlorinated Water Bath 5 cups of household bleach and cool water soak
Vitamin C and Yogurt take internally
Heat apply with a hair drier to affected areas
Fles Naphtha Soap apply before or/and after exposure leave soap to dry
Tecnu Skin Cleanser apply to skin as directed, can be used to clean tools and cloths
Zanfel Poison Ivy Wash apply as directed, purported to bring relief within 30 seconds.
Calamine Lotion apply as directed

For more info try these sites:
Botanical.com A Modern Herbal/Ivy, Poison

Fast Facts: Poison Ivy

What Poison Ivy Looks Like

Outsmarting Poison Ivy From the Food and Drug Administration. Offers tips on what to do when exposed, identifying characteristics of poison ivy, oak, and sumac, and getting rid of these plants.

Is This Poison Ivy? Many good pictures here.

June's Gardening To Do List

2008-06-14T13:51:00.000-07:00

1. Take a critical look at your landscape while at the height of summer development. Can it be better arranged, planned, and planted to fit your family needs.

2. Water lawn and garden thoroughly preferably in the morning, but not too frequently

3. Continue to check for sumer insects and diseases. Spider mite is especially troublesume during the hot summer months.

4. Make your selections of bearded iris and prepare the beds for new plantings. They may be transplanted anytime from mid-june until later summer.

5. Don't forget to provide supplemental water for plants such as hydrangeas, coleus, caladium, geranium, dahlia, azalea, and camellia. Hot, dry summer weather is extremely critical for these plants.

6. Continue to pinch chrysanthemums to obtain compact bushy plants.

7. Container plants and hanging baskets require water and fertilizer durning hot weather.

8. Container grown or balled and burlapped plants can be set out any time to replace dead plants or renew the landscape.

9. Be on the lookout for powdery mildew on crape myrtle, zinne, photinia, and euonymus as well as many other plants.

10. Prune aging annuals, such as petunias, once they become tall and leggy. Then fertilize and water to encourage new growth.

11. Harvest fresh vegtable often to insure continual production.

How to do Bareroot Planting

2008-05-21T03:20:00.000-07:00

Bareroot planting is a great way to get a head start on spring. You can purchase larger plants for less money, and still enjoy them just the same as if you had spent more money on container plants. They do however take a little more care when planting than container grown plants. Here are a few tips to help your bareroot experience become a pleasant one.

Soil Preparation: This step is important, don't skimp on improving the quality of your soil. Healthy, vigorous, productive plants are dependent on their existing soil. The soil in many locations and around foundations is often poor. Time and money spent to improve the soil around new plantings is an excellent investment. Most plants do best in soil that is fertile, loose, high in organic matter and well-drained. Roots require oxygen as well as moisture and nutrients. A good root system is necessary for a healthy top.

Pre-Planting: Before planting bareroot or dormant nursery stock, soak the roots in a pail or bucket of water for 18-24 hours. Do not exceed 24 hours. This allows them to take up the maximum amount of water and does not injure the plant.

Root Pruning: Although not always necessary, it is a good idea to prune scraggly or damaged roots from your bareroot plants before setting. Be sure to use a clean, sharp pruning tool and just snip off the ends behind any scraggly or damaged roots.

Top Pruning: Top pruning can be done before or after planting. We, however do not recommend top pruning unless the plant is spindly or is hard to handle in its present state.

Remember: Bareroot plants are generally set out sooner than others. Top pruning will encourage bushiness, but take note that some new growth may get nipped by a frost. Also, always consider the bloom time of the particular plant, and prune following those guidelines.

Fertilizing: We recommend using a root stimulator when planting bareroot specimens. One we are especially fond of is Ortho Up-Start®, but many good root stimulators are available. Always follow manufacturers directions when using any fertilizer.

Setting the Plant: Make sure the hole is large enough so the roots are not crowded and the soil in the bottom is loose. If your soil is heavy clay, soil preparation is especially important. As you add soil be sure to pack it firmly around the roots, but not hard enough to damage the roots, and add water in the hole to prevent air pocket near the roots.

Watering: Keep in mind that newly planted trees and shrubs will need more water than established plants. Watering depends on environmental conditions, and new plantings should be checked on a daily basis. Watering should also be done slowly, and at the base of the plant so it soaks into the ground to the root depth.

Quick Tip: Too much water can actually cut off needed air to the roots and can cause root rot!

Mulching: Mulching is important because it helps maintain a uniform supply of moisture while keeping weed growth down. We recommend a layer of 2-4 inches of mulch. Mulches can range from shredded cypress or cedar to coca hulls. I am not as fond of the bark chips (because they will float) as the shredded type mulch, but it is all personal preference.

Plants That Clean The Air

2008-05-06T19:01:00.000-07:00

We’ve all known since grade school that plants clean the air we breathe. Foliage and flowering plants that are commonly found in modern office environments, hotels, malls, and building lobbies originate in the tropical rainforests of the world. As we have learned, the rainforests of the world serve as the “lungs of the earth”.

The research suggests that two plants per 100 square feet would be suggested to help improve the interior environment. In a typical office space, this might translate to one table or shelf plant, and one medium floor plant.
The following varieties have been proven the most effective:

Chinese Evergreen
Dieffenbachia
Dracaena
English Ivy
Pothos
Peace Lily
Schefflera
Spider Plant
Tree Philodendron
Weeping Fig
White Butterfly
Warneckei dracaena (Dracaena deremensis warneckei)
Rubber Plant (Ficus robusta)
Lady Palm (Rhapsi excelsa)
Mother-in-law's tongue (Sanseveria tritasciata)
Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans)

Other very effective varieities include
azalea
bamboo palm
bromeliads
gerbera daisy
mass cane
orchids
poinsettias

Pretty much all plants have a positive effect on your indoor environment. Harmful toxins are absorbed, so place plants where air circulates, and wash or dust your plants regularly.

How to Photograph Flowers

2008-04-19T06:27:00.000-07:00

Spring is right around the corner in many parts of the world. For those of us who spent the winter trapped inside, spring means, among other things, an irresistible chance to grab the camera and start capturing the first blooms of the season. Yet, how do you turn those shots of your favorite blooms into something special? Here are some tips on how to take better flower pictures from the world's largest photography school, New York Institute of Photography (NYI).

First, walk around the flower to see how it looks with light coming from different directions. Watch carefully when the light (usually, the sun) is behind the flower, coming toward the camera. Often, the petals will glow with beautiful iridescence. This is called "backlighting" because the light is coming from the back of the subject (in this case, the flower). Backlighting is often the best type of lighting for translucent subjects like petals.

However, don't despair if there is no sun. Gray and overcast days provide great opportunities for flower photography. The lighting is more even and there are no shadows. Rain turns colors more intense. You can even carry a spray bottle to create rain droplets on the sunniest of days. Even night photography is an option. You'll be surprised at how attractive a flower photo can be when illuminated by flash.

Second, to make a flower picture come alive, wait until something adds life to the flower - for example, a bee alights, or a spider crawls into it, or a hummingbird pays a visit. It takes patience, but it pays off if, for example, after you wait a few minutes, a butterfly lands on your flower. Shoot! The picture you get will be great.

Three, try interesting angles and backgrounds. Consider getting down low on the ground or shooting with the wide angle setting on your lens. Don't despair if the background behind the flower is unattractive. Try replacing it with a colored piece of paper or fabric. There are lots of different ways you can experiment when photographing flowers!

"Reprinted with permission from the New York Institute of Photography website at http://www.nyip.com

Fertilizer

2008-04-05T17:33:00.000-07:00

Fertilizer info that might help some of you with any questions on what to use.
The first number is always Nitrogen.
The second number is always Phosphorus.
The third is always Potassium. This order never changes.

The Three Main Nutrients (N, P, and K)

Nitrogen (N) is the main nutrient for new, green growth. Plants that are almost all leaf (such as lawn grasses) need plenty of nitrogen, so the first number is especially high in fertilizers for lawns because grass must continously renew itself after mowing. The higher the number, the more nitrogen the fertilizer provides.

Phosphorus (P) promotes root development which helps strengthen plants. It also increases blooms on flowers. Lots of phosphorous is great for bulbs, perennials, and newly planted trees and shrubs. They depend on strong roots, so fertilizers meant for these plants often have high middle numbers.

Potassium (K) improves the overall health of plants. It helps them withstand very hot or cold weather and defend against diseases. Most soils already have some potassium, so the third number in the fertilizer analysis is usually smaller than the other two. Fertilizers for some tropical plants, especially palms, contain extra potassium because these plants have a special need for it. Fertilizers meant for fall, such as Winterizer, also contain extra potassium to help prepare plants for cold weather.

Other Important Nutrients Calcium (Ca) improves general plant vigor and promotes growth of young roots and shoots.

Magnesium (Mg) helps regulate uptake of other plant foods and aids in seed formation. It is also important in the dark green color of plants and to the ability of a plant to manufacture food from sunlight.

Sulfur (S) helps maintain a dark green color while encouraging more vigorous plant growth.

Minor, or trace, elements are used in small amounts but still essential to plant health. They help ensure dark green color, vigorous development, and healthy growth. Iron (Fe) is the minor element most often lacking from poor soils. It helps plants maintain a dark green color.

Look carefully at a label to shop wisely for fertilizers. The numbers on the bag tell only part of the story. The most important ingredient, nitrogen, comes in many different forms. That is what distinguishes commodity fertilizers and some slow-release fertilizers from the latest technology.

Mixing Your Own Soils

2008-03-21T06:17:00.000-07:00

Mixture #1 - is a basic mix for use with most types of plants:
3 parts organic matter (peat, humus, or sawdust)
1 part sand, perlite, or vermiculite (or a mixture of these)

Mixture #2 - is used for acid-loving plants:
4 parts organic matter
1 part sand, perlite, or vermiculite
Note: for best results, at least one part of the organic matter should be leafmold.

Mixture #3 - for Cacti and Succulents (except the tropical Cacti), and other plants that need good drainage:
3 parts organic matter
2 parts sand, perlite, or vermiculite
Note: for best results, use fine gravel (such as that used in aquariums) for one part of the sand.

Mixture #4 - for potting up newly-rooted cuttings of most plants:
2 parts organic matter
1 parts sand, perlite, or vermiculite

Mixture #5 - for newly-rooted cuttings of acid-loving plants:
2 parts organic matter
2 parts sand, perlite, or vermiculite
Note: for best results, use one part leafmold for the organic matter.

Mixture #6 - especially for the tropical Cacti, most Bromeliads, and some Orchids:
3 parts bark chips
1 part organic matter
1 part sand, perlite, or vermiculite

Gardening Blogs

2008-03-06T08:20:00.000-08:00

There are thousands of garden blogs on the internet. I have a list of blogs that I visit on my web site The Gardening Launch Pad the blogs are here.

Sheila Lennon a writer for the Subterranean News a Rhode Island News Site has a very nice list here. It hasn't been updated for a year, but all the links seem to still be good and the links are from all over the states.

The Meaning of Flowers

2008-02-14T15:55:00.000-08:00

Here is a list of flowers and their meaning both good and bad. Sent to me by my Yahoo Gardening Group. Enjoy!

ACACIA - Concealed Love, Beauty in Retirement, Chaste Love
ALOE Grief
ALLSPICE - Compassion
AMARANTH, GLOBE- Unfading love
AMBROSIA - Your Love is Reciprocated
AMARYLLIS - Pride, Pastoral Poetry
ANEMONE - Forsaken
ANGELICA- Inspiration
ANISEED Restoration of Youth
APPLE BLOSSOM- Preference
ARBUTUS - Thee Only Do I Love
ASTER - Symbol of Love, Daintiness
AZALEA - Take Care of Yourself for Me, Temperance, Fragile Passion,
Chinese Symbol of Womanhood
BABY'S BREATH – (GYPSOPHILIA) Everlasting Love, Happiness, Pure in
Heart
BACHELOR BUTTON - Single Blessedness
BALM- Sympathy
BASIL - Best Wishes, Love
BAY LEAF - Strength
BEGONIA - Beware
BELLS OF IRELAND - Good Luck
BIRD OF PARADISE – Magnificence
BITTERSWEET - Truth
BLUEBELL - Humility; constancy
BORAGE - Courage
BOUQUET OF WITHERED FLOWERS - Rejected love
BURNET - A merry heart
BUTTERCUP - Cheerfulness
CACTUS - Endurance
CALENDULA - Joy
CAMELLIA (PINK) - Longing for you
CAMELLIA (RED) - You're a Flame in My Heart
CAMELLIA (WHITE) - You're Adorable
CANDYTUFT - Indifference
CARNATION (GENERAL) - Fascination, Woman Love, Bonds of affection;
health and energy
CARNATION (PINK) - I'll Never Forget You
CARNATION (RED) - My Heart Aches For You, Admiration, Alas my poor
heart
CARNATION (PURPLE) – Capriciousness, whimsical; changeable
CARNATION (SOLID COLOR) - Yes
CARNATION (STRIPED) - No, Refusal, Sorry I Can't Be With You, Wish I
Could Be With You
CARNATION (WHITE) - Sweet and Lovely, Innocence, Pure Love, Woman's
Good Luck Gift
CARNATION (YELLOW) - You Have Disappointed Me, Rejection, Disdain
CATTAIL - Peace, Prosperity
CHAMOMILE – Patience, attracts wealth
CHRYSANTHEMUM (GENERAL) - You're a Wonderful Friend, Cheerfulness
and Rest.
CHRYSANTHEMUM (WHITE) - Truth
CHRYSANTHEMUM (YELLOW) - Slighted Love
CHRYSANTHEMUM (RED) – I Love
CLEMATIS- Beautiful Mind
CLOVER-- Good Luck
CLOVER (WHITE)—Think of Me
COCKSCOMB- Singularity
COLUMBINE--Folly
COLUMBINE ( PURPLE)—Resolution
COREOPSIS—Always cheerful
CORIANDER-- Lust
COWSLIP- Pensiveness, Winning Grace
CROCUS – Cheerfulness, Youthful gladness, Abuse not
CYCLAMEN - Resignation and Good-bye--Diffidence
DAFFODIL - Regard, Unrequited Love, You're the Only One, The Sun is
Always Shining when I'm with You
DAHLIA—Good taste
DAISY - Innocence, Loyal Love, I'll Never Tell, Purity
DANDELION - Faithfulness, Happiness, Wishes Come True
DELPHINIUM-- Airy, Heavenly
DOGWOOD—Durability
EUCALYPTUS-- Protection
FENNEL - Worthy of all praise
FERN - Magic, Fascination, Confidence and Shelter, Sincerity
MAIDENHAIR FERN-- Secret bond of love
FIR - Time
FLAX - Domestic Symbol, Fate
FORGET-ME-NOT - True Love, Remember Me
FORSYTHIA - Anticipation
FOXGLOVE—Insincerity
GARDEN CHERVIL-- Sincerity
GARDENIA - You're Lovely, Secret Love
GARLIC- Courage; strength
GARLAND OF ROSES - Reward of virtue
GERANIUM, ROSE-SCENTED – Preference
GERANIUM, SCARLET- Comforting
GILLIFLOWER—Lasting Beauty
GLADIOLI - Give Me a Break, I'm Really Sincere, Flower of the
Gladiators, Strength of Character
GLOXINIA - Love at First Sight, A proud spirit
GRASS - Submission; utility
HEATHER (LAVENDER) - Admiration, Solitude
HEATHER (WHITE) - Protection, Wishes Will Come True
HELIOTROPE—Devotion
HIBISCUS—Delicate beauty
HOLLY - Defense, Domestic Happiness
HOLLYHOCK--Ambition
HONEYSUCKLE—Devoted Affection
HYACINTH (GENERAL) - Games and Sports, Play, Rashness, Flower
Dedicated to Apollo
HYACINTH (BLUE) - Constancy
HYACINTH (PURPLE) - I am Sorry, Please Forgive Me, Sorrow
HYACINTH (RED OR PINK) - Play
HYACINTH (WHITE) - Loveliness, I'll Pray for You
HYACINTH (YELLOW) - Jealousy
HYDRANGEA - Thank You for Understanding, Frigidity, Heartlessness
HYSSOP--Cleanliness
IRIS - Fleur-de-lis, Emblem of France, Your Friendship Means so Much
to Me, Faith, Hope, Wisdom and Valor, My Compliments, Message
IVY - Wedded Love, Fidelity, Friendship, Affection
JACOB'S LADDER— Come down
JASMINE, WHITE—Amiability
JASMINE, YELLOW—Grace and elegance
JONQUIL - Love Me, Affection Returned, Desire, Sympathy, Desire for
Affection Returned
LADY'S SLIPPER— Capricious beauty
LANTANA—Rigour
LARKSPUR—Lightness, Levity
LARKSPUR (PINK) – Fickleness
LAUREL—Glory
LAVENDER--Distrust
LILY (WHITE) - Virginity, Purity, Majesty, It's Heavenly to be with
You
LILY (YELLOW) - I'm Walking on Air, False and Gay
LILY (CALLA) – Beauty
LILY (DAY) - Coquetry, Chinese Emblem for Mother
LILY (EUCHARIS) - Maiden Charms
LILY (TIGER) - Wealth, Pride
LILY OF THE VALLEY - Sweetness, Purity, Tears of the Virgin Mary,
Return to Happiness, Humility, You've Made My Life Complete
LOVE-IN-A-MIST--Perplexity
LUPINE--Voraciousness
MAGNOLIA – Nobility, Love of Nature
MARJORAM--Blushes
MARIGOLD - Cruelty, Grief, Jealousy
MISTLETOE - Kiss me, Affection, To Surmount Difficulties, Sacred
Plant of India
MONKSHOOD - Beware, A Deadly Foe is Near
MOSS - Maternal Love, Charity
MYRTLE - Love, Hebrew Emblem of Marriage
NARCISSUS - Egotism, Formality, Stay as Sweet as You Are
NASTURTIUM - Conquest, Victory in Battle
OLEANDER - Caution
ORANGE BLOSSOM - Innocence, Eternal Love, Marriage and Fruitfulness
ORANGE MOCK - Deceit
ORCHID - Love, Beauty, Refinement, Beautiful Lady, Chinese Symbol for
Many Children
ORCHID (CATTLEYA) - Mature Charm
PALM LEAVES - Victory and Success
PANSY—Thinking of you,
PARSLEY-- Festivity
PEONY - Bashfulness, Happy Life, Happy Marriage
PEPPERMINT—Warmth of Feeling
PERIWINKLE, BLUE—Early Friendship
PERIWINKLE, WHITE—Pleasant memories
PETUNIA - Your Presence Soothes Me, Never despair
PHLOX—Unanimity
PINE - Hope, Pity
PINK-Boldness
POLYANTHUS—Pride of Riches
POPPY (GENERAL) - Eternal Sleep, Oblivion, Imagination
POPPY (RED) – Pleasure, Consolation
POPPY (WHITE) - Consolation
POPPY (YELLOW) - Wealth, Success
PRIMROSE - I Can't Live Without You, Early Youth
PRIMROSE (EVENING) - Inconstancy
QUINCE—Temptation
RANUNCULUS—You are Radiant with Charms
ROSE (BRIDAL) - Happy Love
ROSE (CHINA)—Beauty always new
ROSE (DARK CRIMSON) – Love Triumphant
ROSE (HIBISCUS) - Delicate Beauty
ROSE (Lavender)—Love at First Sight
ROSE (LEAF) - You May Hope
ROSE (LIGHT PINK) Admiration
ROSE (PINK) - Perfect Happiness, Please Believe Me
ROSE (DARK PINK)—Gratitude
ROSE (PEACH)-- Appreciation, Gratitude, Modesty
ROSE (RED) - Love, I Love You
ROSE (Red And Yellow)- Happiness
ROSE (TEA) - I'll Remember Always
ROSE (THORNLESS) - Love at First Sight
ROSE (WHITE) - Innocence and Purity, I am Worthy of You, You're
Heavenly, Secrecy and Silence
ROSE (WHITE AND RED MIXED OR WHITE WITH RED EDGES) - Unity, Flower
Emblem of England
ROSE (WHITE-DRIED) - Death is Preferable to Loss of Virtue
ROSE (WHITE and YELLOW) Harmony
ROSE (YELLOW) - Decrease of Love, Jealousy, Try to Care (traditional
meanings); New Meaning is Joy, Gladness, Freedom, Friendship
ROSE (CORAL OR ORANGE) Desire, Enthusiasm
ROSEBUD - Beauty and Youth, A Heart Innocent of Love
ROSEBUD (RED) - Pure and Lovely
ROSEBUD (WHITE) - Girlhood
ROSEBUD (MOSS) - Confessions of Love
ROSES (Bouquet of Mature Blooms) - Gratitude
ROSES (Single Full Bloom) - I Love You, I Still Love You
ROSEMARY--Remembrance
SALVIA, BLUE—I think of You
SALVIA, RED—Forever Thine
SCILLA, BLUE—Forgive and Forget
SMILAX - Loveliness
SNAPDRAGON - Deception, No
SORREL—Affection
SPEARMINT—Warmth of Sentiment
SPIDER FLOWER - Elope with Me
STEPHANOTIS - Happiness in Marriage, Desire to Travel
STOCK - Bonds of Affection, Promptness, You'll Always Be Beautiful to
Me, Lasting Beauty
SUNFLOWER, DWARF—Adoration
SWEET BASIL—Good Wishes
SWEET BRIAR--Simplicity
SWEETPEA - Good-bye, Departure, Blissful Pleasure, Thank You for a
Lovely Time, Lasting Pleasures
SWEET WILLIAM—Gallantry
SYRINGA—Memory
THYME—Activity
TRILLIUM—Modest Beauty
TRUMPET FLOWER—Fame
TUBEROSE—Dangerous Pleasures
TULIP (GENERAL) - Perfect Lover, Frame, Flower Emblem of Holland
TULIP (RED) - Believe Me, Declaration of Love
TULIP (VARIEGATED) - Beautiful Eyes
TULIP (YELLOW) - There's Sunshine in Your Smile (old meaning is
hopeless love)
VERBENA, WHITE—Pure and Guileless
VERONICA--Fidelity
VIOLET - Modesty
VIOLET (BLUE) - Watchfulness, Faithfulness, I'll Always Be True
VIOLET (WHITE) - Let's Take a Chance
WALLFLOWER—Fidelity in Adversity
WISTERIA—I Cling to Thee, Welcome
WOODBINE—Fraternal Love
ZINNIA (MAGENTA) - Lasting Affection
ZINNIA (MIXED) - Thinking (or In Memory) of an Absent Friend
ZINNIA (SCARLET) - Constancy
ZINNIA (WHITE) - Goodness
ZINNIA (YELLOW) - Daily Remembrance

Rose Pruning

2008-01-20T06:43:00.000-08:00

Rose pruning time is just right around the corner. I am not sure were the below article came from, it has been on my computer for years. But it is very good on rose pruning.

After reading this article go to University of Illinois Our Rose Garden for some good pictures of were and how to cut your roses
Rose Magazine has a good set of rose pruning cuts images.
Also the Marin Rose Society has a good image of rose pruning cuts.

Annual heavy pruning is essential to insure the prolific bloom and long-life of a rose bush.

Explaining the concept of rose pruning without a live bush to demonstrate on is difficult, so let your mind loose to help visualize the following steps in rose pruning.

Pruning of roses is actually done year round. Every time you cut off old blooms and remove twiggy growth you are actually promoting new growth. There are two times a year when you prune more seriously, spring and fall.

You will need the following items:

* a good pair of hand pruners (preferably the scissor type, not anvil type)
* a sharp keyhole saw and large loppers
* a heavy pair of leather gloves
* a pruning compound
* a dull knife.
* a Elmer's glue or shellac.
* a can of lysol for spraying your pruners between each rose bush.

Steps to Pruning Roses - Spring

Spring pruning in South Central is normally done between the third week of February and-the first week of March. (I am in Central Texas we always pruned the Sunday after Valentine Day. If you do not know the best time for your area look at your extension service web site) The length of time taken for a bush to bloom depends on the number of petals in the bloom and how deeply it has been pruned. For multi-petalled roses, the spring blooming can take as long as 60-70 days, while fewer petalled varieties can take 35-40 days. Weather is also a factor in bloom cycles. Cool and warmer temperatures will weather will lengthen these periods cause the soil to heat up faster and blooming to occur sooner.

1. The first step in spring pruning of Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas and Climbing roses is to remove any canes that are dead or just old and non-productive. These canes are usually gray in color and scaley. To prune hybrid tea and grandiflora roses follow certain principles including:
* High pruning for more flowers earlier or low pruning for fewer, bigger flowers later
* Pruning to remove weak and crisscrossing canes
* Removing growth an inch below a canker
* Removal of damaged, dead, or broken canes back to healthy growth
* Removing sucker growth as close as possible to main root.

This pruning will encourage future "basal" breaks which are the life blood of any rose bush. Basal breaks refer to new shoots, soon to be producing canes, which arise from the graft union. These should not be confused with "suckers" which arise from the rootstock below the graft union. Remove all suckers.

2. The next step involves taking a good look at the bud union. If you have any old, dry scaley wood on the union, remove it. Use the dull knife to scrape the bud union to remove the scaley wood. By doing this it will again make it possible for new basal breaks to come about.
3. Beginning to fine tune the pruning, remove all twiggy growth on the remaining canes. (Note: The fine tune pruning on climbing roses should be done after they bloom in the spring.) Try to clean out the middle of the bush as much as possible. This allows for good air circulation to prevent insects and disease.
4. Now you are ready to prune on the good healthy canes. With the early flush of growth on the roses the most important procedure this year is to prune each cane back to a dormant bud. A bud that has already begun growth will continue to grow vigorously and bloom very little. A dormant, non-growing bud will initiate growth after pruning and will produce an abundance of blooms.

One comment always heard is to "prune to an outside bud." The basic technique for most pruning is to cut 1/4 inch above the nearest outward-facing bud with the cut at a 45-degree angle (the higher point above the bud). This means when picking the point on a given cane to cut back to, make sure there is a good bud on the cane facing toward the outside of the plant. This will insure the growth of the new bud is to the outside, therefore keeping the center of the rose bush clear and open for air circulation.

Another guideline in pruning back an individual cane is to cut the cane at the point when the diameter of the cane is the size of a pencil or slightly larger. Because of the need to prune back to a dormant bud, the size of the cane may be larger and the cane length may be shorter.

If old and large canes have been removed to the bud union, it is a good practice to seal these large cuts. This helps prevent insects and diseases from infecting the cuts. Smaller canes in many cases don't need to be sealed. Use some sort of sealing compound such as orange shellac or even Elmer's glue.

5. When pruning is completed remove any old foliage left on the canes.

6. The final product of your pruning should be a rose bush about 18 to 24 inches tall with 4 to 8 canes. Add some fertilizer and regular pest spraying, and that pitiful looking rose bush will soon give you a shower of flowers.

Floribundas are usually not pruned as severely as hybrid teas. Even so, be sure to remove any dead, broken, damaged, or blotched branches back to where the pith, or center of the cane, is white and healthy looking. Next, remove weak, spindly canes, canes growing toward the center of the bush, the weaker of two canes that crisscross, canes that grow out, then up, and suckers, if any. Finally, trim all remaining canes back to one-half their former height.

Miniatures - In the spring it is best to cut miniatures almost down to the ground ( i.e., 2 to 3 inches). Moreover, if they are over three years old it is a good idea to divide them by cutting the whole plant in half or more. Be sure to leave some roots on each division.

Old-Fashioned (Antique) and Shrubs - Remove any dead canes and lightly trim remainder of bush, removing about a third of the growth. Mass blooming is the aim with these roses. Additional light grooming throughout the year is encouraged since everblooming varieties bloom on new wood. Varieties that bloom only once during the season should be pruned AFTER they have bloomed since they bloom on old wood.

General - If the bush is over two years old, cut out one or more of the oldest and largest canes using a keyhole saw. Also, clean off the bud union with a dull knife. Seal any large cuts with Elmer's glue or shellac. Remove debris from beds and any leaves remaining on bush after pruning is completed.

Steps to Pruning Roses - Fall

The fall pruning is lighter than in the spring and consists of removing twiggy and unproductive growth along with any crossing or dead canes. All foliage is left on the bush at this time. Labor Day is a good time to do the fall "grooming."

Climbers are not pruned in the same manner as Hybrid Teas. To encourage growth of more flowering laterals and stimulate production of new canes, you should not cut back long canes unless they are outgrowing the allotted space. Varieties differ in this respect since some will produce new canes from the base each year, while others build up a woody structure and produce long, new canes from a position higher up on the plant. Thus, when pruning, the following practices are recommended:

Everblooming varieties -- Cut back to two or three bud eyes all laterals that bore flowers during the past year. Remove any dead, diseased or twiggy growth. For established plants, oldest canes are removed annually at the base. Remaining canes are repositioned and secured, if necessary. For routine maintenance, remove all spent blooms and cut back to a strong bud eye. Canes are tied in place as they mature. Avoid attempting to do this before the wood matures, as soft tender growth is easily broken off.

Ramblers and once blooming varieties - These types should be pruned after blooming as they will normally bloom on year old wood. Thus, after spring bloom, cut out old, unproductive wood and weak canes.

A good practice is to avoid severe pruning for the first two or three years after planting, as it takes this long for most climbers to mature. During this period, remove all dead and weak canes and spent blooms (in some instances, climbers will bloom very little for the first couple of years). New canes of most climbers should be trained horizontally to encourage the growth of flowering laterals. Strips of old pantyhose make good "ties". Pillar roses will grow and bloom upright.

Summer Care of Roses

Summer is the most important time of the year for continued care of rose bushes. Most people have a tendency to slack off due to an increase in other activities. For bushes to be healthy and productive, they must have water. One to two inches a week is generally recommended. Keep an eye on beds next to a fence or house, even after a good rainfall there is an excellent possibility they will still be dry. Maintain a systematic spray program. To maintain moisture in beds, keep mulch on the beds.

Continual light feeding of roses during the summer months is recommended in this area. if using a granular food, use monthly. During the hottest months, a weaker solution of liquid food may be used.

Extending the Zone for Tender Plants

2008-01-05T20:14:00.000-08:00

Here in the lower south our winters are but a brief interruption in our long growing season. However, a few really cold snaps can put an end to an otherwise nice cool-season garden. There are a number of cold-tender plants, such as fig trees, yellow bells (Tecoma stans), Satsuma oranges, and kumquats, that could be grown outdoors if we could just get them through a few brief cold snaps.

In fact, there are a number of ways to protect a semi-hardy plant on a night when temperatures drop into the low 20s or teens. Here are a few tips and techniques to cheat on winter and maintain a few plants that are a zone too far north for their liking.

Row Cover Fabric
Spunbound polyester fabrics come in several weights. The lighter-weight products (approximately .6 oz. per square yard) are suitable for protecting plants from insects, but not very helpful when frosts threaten. Heavier-weight fabrics (around 1.2 oz. or more per square yard) can protect plants against frosts and light freezes. They will provide a few degrees of protection by holding the heat of the earth beneath them and around the underlying plants.

When practical, the fabrics should be removed during the day to allow the sun to heat the soil and plants. Then, in late afternoon or early evening, recover the plants for overnight protection. These fabrics are most helpful in protecting low-growing plants, such as strawberries and vegetables. Large plants like fruit trees and vines may be too large to cover easily and effectively.

For more protection, use blankets or plastic to cover the plants. These do a better job of holding in the warm air. Plastic can "burn" plants where it touches the foliage on a freezing night, but this is a small price to pay for protecting the entire plant from freeze damage.

Prized plants that lack cold hardiness, such as small citrus trees, can be covered for some protection, provided that the cover extends to the ground so it will trap rising soil heat. To simply wrap a plant like a "landscape lollipop" will do little good.

PVC Frame
Sections of PVC pipe can be used to make a box or frame around a tender shrub or young tree. Cover the frame with inexpensive, clear plastic to make a mini greenhouse. I use a 6-mil plastic, which is readily available at most home supply stores. It will last through the winter season. This box needs to be anchored to hold it down when a "blue norther" comes blasting through. I have used metal posts driven into the ground or cinder blocks tied to the base through holes drilled in the PVC.

Light Bulbs
The PVC-framed box is fine for protecting against a moderately cold night, but for added protection you can use a source of heat inside the cover. Light bulbs or a string of the large outdoor Christmas lights can provide enough heat to give a few more degrees of protection. Check cords for bare areas, and don't allow the hot bulbs to contact plant stems or foliage. Place the lights near the ground or low in the plant canopy because the heat from the bulbs will rise up through the canopy.

Mega Mulch
A thick layer of mulch will protect the tender crown of a tender plant during our brief winter cold snaps. I like to use a thick layer of hay or leaves. Innovative gardeners have even made a temporary cold frame by placing four bales of hay against each other to form a box. Then they fill the interior with hay or leaves.

A ring of wire mesh can encircle a fig bush and be filled with lots of leaves as an alternative technique that ends up looking like a large compost bin. The wire is removed in spring, and the leaves are spread around the area as a nice surface mulch.

With the changing climate most of the Zone Maps online are out of date, but The Arbor Day Foundation has recently completed an extensive updating of U.S. Hardiness Zones based upon data from 5,000 National Climatic Data Center cooperative stations across the continental United States.

Here you will find a map of the changes.

Gardening by Month In Central, Tx

2007-12-30T06:56:00.000-08:00

JANUARY
1.Plant bare root nursery stock, especially roses, pecans, and small fruit trees.
2.Continue to select and plant ornamental trees and shrubs to fill landscape needs. Always plan ahead before planting.
3. Seeds of most all spring annual flowers and vegetables can be sown indoors during January for later transplanting to the garden bed.
4. Be prepared to protect tender plants against a sudden severe cold snap. Water plants thoroughly if a hard freeze is predicted.
5. Keep the lawn free of fallen leaves to prevent smothering the grass.
6. All dormant season pruning can be done now through late February. Use proper tools, make cuts close and clean. Wait on pruning forsythia, spirea, gardenias, climbing roses, azaleas, camellias, and other spring flowering shrubs until after they bloom. Prune with a purpose, not because there's nothing else to do.
7. Apply dormant oil spray to control scale, and other hard-to-manage insect pests.
8. Prepare soil and beds for planting spring and summer annuals and perennials. Add peat moss, compost, or other organic materials, as needed.
9. This is the best month to prune oak trees to reduce possible spread of oak wilt fungus.
10. Apply light application of fertilizer to established beds of winter flowering annuals (pansy, calendula, snapdrogon, etc.) Use one pound of 15-10-5 per 100 square feet of bed area.
11. Select and order gladiolus corms for February and March planting. Choose some of the newer varieties for garden surprise.
12. Check evergreen trees and shrubs to be sure they are not suffering from lack of moisture.

FEBRUARY
1st-15th 1. Continue to select and plant roses.
2. Begin to spray fruit trees to control scale.
3. Continue to select and plant woody ornamental.
4. Prune established tea and floribunda roses around the 25th of the month. Also prune fruit and nut trees, evergreens, summer flowering shrubs and landscape trees.
5. Plant Gladiolus bulbs and continue to do so at 2 week intervals until about July 15.
6. Apply dormant spray to deciduous trees and shrubs.
7. Major tree pruning can continue this month, if needed.
8. The following flower seeds may be sown directly in properly prepared flower beds this month: Balsam, Calendula, Coneflower, Four O'clock, Hollyhocks, Annual Phlox, California Poppy, and Nasturtium.
9. Begin to "harden off" tomatoes, peppers and other cold frame or indoor plantings. Water less and begin to expose plants to cool weather gradually.
10. Weed previously tilled flower beds.

MARCH
1st -15th Average last killing freeze date for the Austin area is March 3. This means outdoor gardening can begin in a big way this month.

1. Plant Alyssum, Daisy, Dianthus, Lobelia, Phlox, Verbena, Geranium, Aster, Petunia, Mums, Ageratum, Balsam, Cockscomb, Morning Glory, Nasturtium, Portulaca, Saliva, Sunflower, Zinnia, Marigolds, Coleus are any other spring bedding of your choice.
2. Plant last of bare rooted trees and shrubs. After March 15th, plant only container or balled plants. 3. Keep gardens weed free. Learn to recognize emerging flower seedlings. Do not mistake your annuls and perennials for weeds.
16th - 31st
1. Plant snapbeans, lima beans, eggplants, lettuce, cucumbers, squash, corn, cantaloupes, tomato plants, pumpkins, watermelons.
2. Begin to set out virus resistant strains of St. Augustine or seed Bermuda grass or Buffalo grass. 3. Continue to watch all trees, shrubs, and emerging plants for signs of disease and insects.
4. Get those hanging baskets started this month. The variety of plants that can be used is limited only by your imagination.
5. After scalping the lawn, fertilize with a complete fertilizer, such as 15-5-10, 10 -20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Water in thoroughly.

APRIL
1st-15th
1. Plant vinca, copper plants, and other summer annuals
2. Plant 2nd planting of corn and green beans
3. Begin moving houseplants out of doors.
4. Thin newly planted vegetables.
5. Plant okra, peas
6. Mulch tomatoes, peppers, roses, azaleas.
7. Select caladium tubers while there is ample stocks. Keep in a warm dry location until ready to plant. Soil temp. should be at least 70
8. Still time to plant any needed trees and shrubs.
9. The Fire Blight season on pear, loquat, Indian hawthorne, pyracantha, and cotoneaster. This bacterial disease causes rapid die-back. Prune out all infected wood.
10. Divide and transplant overcrowded Shasta Daisy, Daylily, Liriope, Mums and Cannas.

16th-30th
1. Prune spring flowering shrubs after blooming (Azaleas, Flowering Quince, Indian Hawthorne) 1a. Fertilize azaleas as they finish blooming. Because of their shallow root system, it is best to make several light applications.
2. Control downy and powdery mildews on vegetable plants
3. Prune Pear, Apple, Crabapple, Loquat, Pyracantha, Cotoneaster Indian Hawthorne if affected by fire blight.
4. Check all plants for evidence of insect damage.
5. Plant Ground covers
6. Don't be concerned about the old leaves on Magnolia Photinia, Gardenia, Cleyera, Abelia, Ligustrum or Pittosporum turning yellow and falling. This is a natural occurrence this time of year. 7. Bermuda grass lawns can be seeded now.

MAY
1 Repot crowed house plants, move to a spot on your patio or under a large shade tree for the summer. Guard against burning the foliage-dont' move them directly into full sun.
2. St. Augustine lawns will likely begin to show chinch bug damage during late May.
3. Fertilize: Vegetables monthly, flowering annuals monthly; trees and shrubs twice a year; lawns every 10-12 weeks.
4. Early spring annuals such as pansies and calendulas will soon fade with summer's heat. Clean out the beds and plant summer flowering annuals.
5. This is an excellent time to propagate your favorite chrysanthemums from cuttings. As soon as the cutting are rooted, dig up the parent plant and discard.
6. Work rain-compacted soil around plants and flower beds to provide aeration. Use shallow cultivation to prevent root damage. The use of a good mulch will prevent soil compacting, eliminate the need for cultivation, greatly reduce weed growth, and cut down on watering.
7. Continue to watch for aphids, thrips, red spider mite, caterpillars, white fly, leaf rollers, and scale. 8 Complete pruning of climbing roses to insure a good supply of new wood for next year's flower formation.
9. Continue to spray roses for black spot and mildew control.
10. Pinch back leggy bedding plants to encourage side shoots. Pinching stops the terminal growth, thus resulting in bushier plants and more flower buds.
11. Caladium bulbs can be planted anytime this month.
12 Check your lawn mower blade. Dull blades can cause a brownish discoloration of the stems and leaves shortly after cutting.
13. Weeds will soon invade a lawn that is suffering from lack of moisture. A thorough, deep soaking of the lawn every week is better than frequent light watering.

JUNE
1. Take a critical look at your landscape while at the height of summer development. Can it be better arranged, planned, and planted to fit your family needs.
2. Water lawn and garden thoroughly preferably in the morning, but not too frequently
3. Continue to check for sumer insects and diseases. Spider mite is especially troublesume during the hot summer months.
4. Make your selections of bearded iris and prepare the beds for new plantings. They may be transplanted anytime from mid-june until later summer.
5. Don't forget to provide supplemental water for plants such as hydrangeas, coleus, caladium, geranium, dahlia, azalea, and camellia. Hot, dry summer weather is extremely critical for these plants.
6. Continue to pinch chrysanthemums to obtain compact bushy plants.
7. Container plants and hanging baskets require water and fertilizer durning hot weather.
8. Container grown or balled and burlapped plants can be set out any time to replace dead plants or renew the landscape.
9. Be on the lookout for powdery mildew on crape myrtle, zinne, photinia, and euonymus as well as many other plants.
10. Prune aging annuals, such as petunias, once they become tall and leggy. Then fertilize and water to encourage new growth.
11. Harvest fresh vegtable often to insure continual production.

JULY
1. Water lawns and garden when needed giving a thorough soaking rather than frequent light sprinklings.
2. Fertilize lawn at the same rate suggested in May. Be sure soil is moist before applying then water in well after applying.
3. Check plants for mulch. Replace as needed
4. Keep a close check on recently planted landscape plants. Inadequate root system and drought can be damaging.
5. Watch for and apply early control for summer insects and disease to privent a build up of spread.
6. Check Azaleas and Camellias for iron chrlorosis (pale green leaves, darker green veins). If necessary, use copperas or iron chelate to correct iron deficiency.
7. Sow seeds of the following annuals for fall flower: Marigold, Zinnia, Periwinkle, Petunia, Cosmos, Portulaca, Ageratum.
8. Make the last pinch on early blooming mums by mid-July. Those blooming late in the fall can be given one additional pinch the last of the month. Keep them well watered.
9. Check your lawn mower. With hot weather here, you may want to raise the mower blade to the highest setting.
10.Check junipers and marigolds for red spider mite. The brown, discolored foliage may be due to mite damage. Hold a sheet of white paper below a branch and tap the branch sharply. If the dirt specks start to move, you can be almost certain you have spider mite.
11. To keep hanging baskets looking attractive, soak the baskets in a tub of water every few days in addition to the regular daily watering. This is also a good time to fertilize baskets but never apply fertilizer to dry plants.
12. Divide spring and early summer perennial including daffodils, daylilies, iris, etc., and replant the best clumps. Discard the diseased or damage material, and share any surplus with friends.
13. Low areas in the lawn may be gradually filled with shallow applications of good top soil where needed. Avoid temptation to apply a layer of sandy loam over the entire lawn area just because your neighbor does.
14. Plant spider lilies and fall crocus
15. Seed tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cauliflower, okra, cabbage and brocolli for fall garden.

AUGUST
August is the peak of the heat in Austin. Despite higher water bills remember: Water is best summer fertilizer. It's your key to successful gardening. Soak frequently, thoroughly, and deeply.
1. Make a second application of chinch bug control early this month, if needed.
2. Plant pansy and calendula seed for fall and winter color.
3. This is the ideal time to begin planting that fall veritable garden.
4. Start a new compost pile and be ready to collect the leaves as they drop this fall. Be certain to keep moist to speed up decomposition.
5. Plan now for major landscape changes you may need.

SEPTEMBER
1. Make your selections of spring flowering bulbs as soon as they become available. Don't wait for the close-out bargains, as these are usually dried out and lack the necessary chilling needed for good flower production. Store bulbs in a cool place until ready to plant, preferably about 40 degrees. The refrigerator is an excellent place.
2. Prepare beds for planting springs bulbs so they are ready when you need them.
3. Begin to groom pot plants that have been outdoors this summer. Repot or cut back overgrown plants, groom and fertilizer before brining them inside.
4. Continue insect and disease control sprays on roses if maximum beauty and blooms are desired.
5. Time to plant or to divide and transplant daylilies, bearded iris, Shasta daisies, violets, etc.
6. September marks the beginning of the brown patch season on St. Augustine lawns. Apply PCNB (Terraclor) to those areas of the lawn with past history of brown patch. Also watch other lawn areas and apply control at the first sign of disease occurrence.
7. There is still time to sow Bermuda grass seed and get it established before cold weather. Broadcast one pound of seed per 600 sq ft for best coverage.
8. Fertilize the lawn this month with a fertilizer containing a Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium ration of 3-1-2.
9. Fall flowering annuals and perennials still require plenty of moisture if the flowers are to be attractive. Don't be fooled by the cool night and moderate day temperatures.
10. Clean established garden beds and replenish mulch materials where needed. Remove faded annuals and cut back perennials that have finished flowering.
11. Time to plant cool season vegetables including: Cabbage, cauliflower, onions, spinach, greens, and turnips. Quick maturing crops, such as radishes and lettuce, can be planted. Too late for tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
12. Save major pruning jobs for mid-winter.
13.Bluebonnet and other wildflower seeds can be planted this month.

OCTOBER
1.Plant spring flowering bulbs such as Hyacinths, Allium, Snowflakes, Daffodils,jonquils, Narcissus, Rain Lilies, Dutch Iris, Ranunculus, Anemones, Grape Hyacinth, Amaryllis and others.
2. Dig and store Caladium tubers. Store in dry peat or in perlite packed in boxes so that roots do not touch each other. Store in an area where the temperature will not go below 55 degrees to prevent spoilage.
3. Scale insects on broad leafed evergreens such as Camellia, Gardenia, Holly, and Eunoymus can be effectively controlled by spraying with dormant oil, Do not use oil spray if temperature goes above 80 degrees.
4. Purchase started plants of pansies, snapdragons, dianthus, flowering kale, and flowering cabbage for attractive winter and spring color.
5. Check for aphids and caterpillars on fall flowers and leafy vegetables.
6. Clean, sharpen all hand tools and cover all metal parts with a light coat of oil to prevent rust before storing for the winter. A bucket of dry sand plus a cup or two or oil makes an excellent way to clean those yeard tools.
7. Begin a new compost pile using the abundant fall leaves.
8. A final application of fertilizer can be appplied to your lawn early this month if you failed to fertilize in September.
9. Sow ryegrass for a winter green lawn or to prevent erosion of bare soil. Use 8 -10 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet.

NOVEMBER
1. Prepare beds for roses it be planted in December and January. Order those special rose varieties now for late delivery.
2. Force spring flowering bulbs for indoor flowering.
3. Finish planting all spring flowering bulbs except tulips.
4. Clean annual and perennial beds. Rework annual beds and prepare for spring or fall planting.
5. Continue to practice good garden sanitation. Keep leaves raked up and place on compost pile. Wet thoroughly as you build up the compost pile to hasten decomposition. Turn contents with shovel or spading fork periodically.
6. Annual rye grass will make a good ground cover for a new lawn to hold top soil in place and prevent tracking soil into the house. Sow seed at rate 8-10 pounds/1000 square feet.
7. Large, almost mature, tomatoes can be picked just ahead of the first frost.
8.Fertilize shade trees by deep root placement in holes.
9. Harvest fall vegetables

DECEMBER
1.Select Christmas tree early, cut off end of trunk and stand in buckets of water in cool area until ready to use.
2. Consider using a liveing Christmas tree that can be planted in the landscape or used as a tubed specimen. Afgan pine is excellent for this purpose. Are buy your tree from one of the Christmas Tree growers in Center Texas, this way you can pick and cut your own tree.
3. Plant Tulip bulbs that have been chilling in the refrigerator.
4. Good time to make that dormant oil spry to control scale and other hard to control overwinting insects pest.
5. Keep cool season weeds in check before they get too established in the garden. Henbit, chickweed, and dandelion that germinated in October will grow all winter.
5.Continue to rake fallen leaves. Do not allow them to accumulate and smother the lawn grass.
6. Begin rose planting. To theTop of Page

Merry Christmas

2007-12-23T07:15:00.000-08:00

I wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Poisonous Holiday Plants

2007-12-16T05:55:00.000-08:00

The plants and shrubs we use for decoration will cause only minor stomach irritation or rashes. Many people think poinsettia and mistetoe are very poisonous, One should be use caution but ingestion of these plants is not fatal.

If someone does ingest some plant parts call your local Poison Control Center or The National Capital Poison Center at 1-800-222-1222 Do not make someone vomit unless instructed by the Poison Control Center.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.): This exotic plant from tropical America and Africa has brilliant-colored flowers and green strap-shaped leaves. A stomach-ache can occur if the bulb is eaten.

Christmas Cactus: This is an old favorite during the holiday season and often sold as Zygocactus truncatus. The arching, drooping branches are made up of flattened, scallop-edged, smooth, bright green, spineless joints. Rosy purplish, red flowers appear at Christmas time. This plant is considered non-toxic.

Christmas Trees (Cedar): Eating the bark can cause a stomach-ache. The sap may cause an itchy skin rash.

Christmas Trees (Pine, Spruce & Fir): The needles can cause choking, but are non-toxic.

Holly berries (Ilex spp.): The bright red berries of this plant are especially attractive to small children. Nibbling on 1 or 2 berries will not cause any symptoms. Swallowing more, however, can result in nausea, vomiting, stomach pain and diarrhea.

Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum): Swallowing this ornamental plant can result in vomiting, redness of the skin, drowsiness or restlessness, and hallucinations. This plant has bright orange and dark red berries. In rare cases seizures may occur.

Mistletoe (Phoradendron spp.): All parts of the plant contain toxic substances and if eaten can cause vomiting, diarrhea and stomach pain. One to two berries or leaves eaten by a child will NOT result in serious harm. As a precaution when hanging mistletoe in your home, place it in a piece of netting or a plastic sandwich bag. This will help avoid young children or pets from eating the leaves and berries that drop to the ground.

Poinsettia (Euphorbia spp.): Eating many leaves may cause mild stomach upset. The sap from the plant may cause skin rash and should be washed off with soap and water. Contrary to earlier beliefs, poinsettias are safe in the home during the holidays.

Pyracantha (Pyracantha spp.): This plant is often used in holiday center-piece decorations because of it's showy ornamental appearance. The pyracantha plant is a thorny bush that belongs to the rose family. It has oblong, shiny leaves, white flowers and a lot of berries during the winter season. If large amounts of berries are eaten, a stomach-ache may result, however most experts say it is safe for decorating use during the holidays.

Rosary Pea or the Jequirity Bean (Abrus precatorius): The jequirity bean, commonly used in Mexico, is often used in jewelry making because of its dark red color and black tipped end. In India and Africa the plant has been used as both a human and an animal poison. There is no harm if the beans are swallowed whole, but can be life-threatening if they are chewed prior to swallowing. Vomiting and stomach-ache occurs within a few hours after swallowing. This is followed by bloody diarrhea.

Thanks to California poision control system for the above list. http://www.calpoison.org/public/winter-holidays.html

What does a gardener want for Christmas?

2007-12-05T20:59:00.000-08:00

Here are some of the gifts that are on my gardening wish list.

Gardening classes are conducted year round at gardening nurseries, schools and community centers and your local extension agceny.

Potting bench. Bending over to report or pot plants is hard on the back. The better benches have compartments for tools, seeds, etc.

Herb pots for growing many plants in. All your kitchen herbs can be in one place.

Garden boots. Are great for those occasional rainy days and mucking in the muck.

A Gardening tote bag or bucket. Pockets so many pockets for carring every gardening tool, gloves etc.

A Garden bench. Gardening is not all work, one needs to sit and admire all the work they have done.

Watering cans, water misters, rain barrels and self watering planters. There are all kinds of watering solutions out there.

Outdoor clock and weather station. Weather is something all gardeners obsess over.Many of the weather stations can be hooked up to your computer for record keeping.

Books are a great way to keep your favorite gardener busy on those long winter days when they can not get in the garden.

Which Christmas Tree Suits Your Needs?

2007-11-18T10:26:00.000-08:00

So what is the greenest way to go on your tree? A real one or a artificial one. The National Christmas Tree Association has a very good table on the difference on the two.

Here are the reasons I do not use a artificial one.
1. Fake trees are made from nonrenewable petroleum.
2. When a fake tree catches fire, it puts dangerous toxic fumes into the air.
3. Fake trees cannot be recycled
4. Fake trees are manufactured mainly outside of the United States 85% in China

I prefer a "pot in pot" live Christmas trees. Those are specially planted evergreens that can be transplanted outside after the holidays. Since evergreens do not do well here in Texas I have used native trees, of course this time of year they have no leaves. Makes decorating them lots of fun!

To find a Christmas Tree Farm near you the International Christmas Tree Farm Directory should help you. At many of these farm you choose and cut the tree your self, a great way to get the whole family into the Christmas sprit.

The University of Illinois Extension has a good list of trees types.

Some Christmas tree facts.....

For every real Christmas tree harvested, 2-3 seedlings are planted in its place.

There are about 1,000,000 acres in production for growing Christmas trees. Each acre of trees provides the daily oxygen requirements of 18 people.

There are about 15,000 Christmas tree growers in the U.S. and over 100,000 people employed full or part time in the industry.

There are approximately 5,000 choose and cut farms in the U.S.

It can take as long as 15 years to grow a tree of average retail height (6ft), but the average growing time is 7 years.

The top Christmas tree producing states are Oregon, Michigan, Wisconsin, California, Pennsylvania and North Carolina.

The top selling Christmas trees are the Scotch Pine(36%), Douglas Fir(20%), White Pine (8%), and the Balsam Fir (8%).
Thanks to Dalou Farms for the above facts.

How to Care for Your Poinsettia

2007-11-10T07:09:00.000-08:00

Poinsettia you'd like to keep and have rebloom for next year? It's possible, if you start planning now, and use the instructions from the Paul Ecke Poinsettia Ranch where they've been growing poinsettias since the 1920's:

The New World is represented in Christmas legend by only one plant, the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima).

Also known by its beautiful Spanish name of flor de nochebuena, or "flower of Christmas Eve," the poinsettia is indigenous to Central America and tropical Mexico. The story goes that a poor Mexican child on her way to church on Christmas Eve wept because she had no gift to place before the altar of the Virgin and Child. Through her tears, an angel suddenly appeared and instructed her to gather weeds from the roadside. When the child arrived at the altar with her wilted offering, starry crimson "blossoms" burst forth from every stem.

During the 14th - 16th century the sap was used to control fevers and the bracts (modified leaves) were used to make a reddish dye. Montezuma, the last of the Aztec kings, would have poinsettias brought into hat now is Mexico City by caravans. Poinsettias could not be grown there because of the cooler temperatures.

Joel Roberts Poinsett was the first United States Ambassador to Mexico being appointed by President Andrew Jackson in the 1820's. He took cuttings from the plant and brought them back to his greenhouse in South Carolina. While Poinsett had an outstanding career as a United States Congressman and Mexican Ambassador, he is best remembered for introducing the poinsettia into the United States.

The poinsettia's brilliant seasonal display is actually produced by colored bracts surrounding the real flowers, which appear as an insignificant cluster of yellow berries called "cyathia." The petal-like bracts are modified leaves located at the junction of the flower stalks and main stem. In November and December, these turn vivid shades of red in response to the longer nights.

Fertilize the poinsettia if you keep it past the holiday season.Apply a houseplant fertilizer once a month. Cut the stems back to 4 to 6 inches in February to promote new growth. In May, repot it to a larger container. Once nightly temperatures stay above 60 degrees F, you can move it outside. Turn the plant to keep it full and minimize root growth outside the pot. Bring it indoors before nighttime temperatures dip below 55 degrees F. You should also stop fertilizing it at this time.

Coloring of the bracts and flowering is induced by shortening thephotoperiod (day length). From late September to December 1, theplant should be kept in total darkness between 5 PM and 8 AM. The plant should initiate flowering and start to show some color. After December 1, your poinsettia can be left out and enjoyed through the holidays. If this sounds like too much work, then support the green industry by purchasing new plants each year!

Water needs. Water thoroughly when the soil is dry to the touch. Poke some holes in the fancy wrappers to allow excess water to drain. (Tip: Perforating the bottom of wrappers on all containers swathed in foil will help any gift plant, no matter what type, survive the holidays better.) Soggy roots from standing in water will definitely cause poinsettias to drop their leaves and bracts. Fertilizer isn't needed now.

Warmth and no drafts.Poinsettias require warmth. (A chilled plant will drop its leaves.) The temperature range that keeps them happiest is about 72-75 degrees during the day and 65 degrees at night.

For more info and links go to my web page on poinsettia

Poop for the Roses & Trees

2007-10-29T09:37:00.000-07:00

The time has come to clean out the chicken coop and the horse stalls. This year I will load both of them into my trailer and mix them together. Chicken poop is very hot for plants, horse poop is not and breaks down very fast. So I am hoping this will be a good mixture for the plants. The son and I will mulch with this mixture on all the roses and trees that I have on the property.

I will not be putting this mixture on my veggie garden. Here is a good article from garden web on Are All Animal Manures Safe for an Organic Garden ?

Pruning

2007-09-12T08:27:00.001-07:00

Pruning season is fast approching, in Texas the saying is "The right time to prune is when the saw is sharp" Of course with oak wilt this is not true. The USDA has a good page on Identify, Prevent, and Control Oak Wilt.

Pruning is often misunderstood and improperly practiced. Proper pruning is not difficult if a regular maintenance schedule is followed. A plant that has been neglected is difficult or impossible to prune. Therefore, pruning should begin before a plant has reached maximum size for the space occupied. When a plant has become too large for normal pruning, it should be replaced. Using dwarf plants in limited spaces reduces pruning needs.

Artificial pruning removes the lower dead and living branches to hasten the formation of clear wood. Clear wood is produced naturally, but slowly, under the right conditions. Natural pruning occurs in second growth forests as crowns close and lower branches are shaded. This cycle of shading, death, and loss of branches is not completed until late in a tree’s life cycle. The completion of branch loss by natural means is usually later than projected harvest ages. The degree and speed of natural pruning vary with stand density and species. To produce clear wood in rotations of less than 100 years, artificial pruning is necessary.

The death of lower tree branches is a normal consequence of inter-tree competition and self shading. Dead branches remain attached until they break off or rot. If dead branches are pruned, the tree produces clearwood decades sooner than is possible without pruning. As the tree grows after pruning, the pruning scar is covered over. The total time to heal the wound depends on the rate of diameter growth of the tree, branch diameter and other factors. Long branch stubs heal over more slowly. Live knots generally heal over sooner than dead knots.

When pruning, it is important not to cut the branch collar. Minor nicking of the branch collar is acceptable in order to get a close parallel cut. The branch collar is the site of the trees natural healing tissues.

Pruning effects wood quality by influencing the production of knots and hastening production of mature wood. Knots are produced when a tree stem grows over branches. Dead branches lead to the production of loose or dead knots while live branches form tight or live knots. Wood produced within the crown is juvenile wood in addition to being knotty. Juvenile wood tends to have lower density than mature wood.

The University of Minnesota has a very good article on Pruning Trees and Shrubs.

If you need a good picture guide for pruning How to prune trees.

Don't forget your ornamentals Pruning Ornamental Shrubs.

What about the fruit trees Training & Pruning Fruit Trees.

If a person cannot love a plant after he has pruned it, then he has either done a poor job or is devoid of emotion. - Liberty Hyde Bailey...

Xeriscape

2007-08-15T16:42:00.000-07:00

Here in Texas the heat is going on strong. Watering the plants is becoming a every day chore. Lucky I have done my homework on Xeriscaping my yard. The Colorado Water Wise Council has a great definition of xeriscape.

"What is Xeriscape? This question confuses many people who expect Xeriscape to be a specific look or specific group of plants. Xeriscape is actually a combination of seven common-sense gardening principles that save water while creating a lush and colorful landscape."

Here is a list of Xeriscape sites.

Plus there is a expo in Feb 08

13th Water Conservation/Xeriscape Conference
21-22 February 2008
Pyramid Marriott Hotel
Albuquerque, New Mexico

2008 Xeriscape Expo
23-24 February 2008
At the NM EXPO - Fairgrounds

If you surf over to your local Master Gardener/Extension Site you will find plant list for your area .

Gardening Jim
My Grandmother always said
Not to plant a garden bigger
Than your spouse could weed.

The Beginning

2007-08-15T11:41:00.000-07:00

This blog was created to supplement my web site The Gardening Launch Pad. http://gardeninglaunchpad.com. I started the The Gardening Launch Pad back in 1995 not long after the internet started to be come known. I had run a BBS (Bulletin Board System) for a few years before my web page.

The Gardening Launch Pad is a compilation of Web site links that provide avid gardeners with useful information that will help them learn more about gardening. The links focus on the Home Gardener, not reseachers or other professionals, and 96% of these links are content links, not commerical links.

I work for 26 years at Zilker Botanical Gardens In Zilker Park in Austin, Tx. I started as a seasonal worker and ended up running the place. Have since retired and have move out to the country, with horses, goats, chickens and of course a garden.

Gardening Jim
Whoever said:"Do a job right the first time, you won't have to do it over" Never Weeded a Garden

The Gardening Launch Pad Blog

Winterizing Your Greenhouse

Plastic bottles

Buffalograss FAQ

Mowing your lawn

How to grow a pineapple indoors

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Extending Christmas Joy with a Poinsettia!

Christmas Tips

Bulbs Provide Easy Perennial Color

Water Wisdom

Fried Green Tomatoes

Summer Gardening

Flower Clock

May Gardening to do List

So Many Bloomin' Things To Do

Bugs

Yearly Planning

Designing an Easy-Care Landscape

How to Photograph Flowers

Rose Pruning

Christmas Tips

November to do List

Bluebonnet FAQ

October to do list

Fall Color

September's To Do List

Roses For Every Landscape

Google Insights for Search

August Gardening To Do List

July's Gardening To Do List

Poison Ivy Remedies

June's Gardening To Do List

How to do Bareroot Planting

Plants That Clean The Air

How to Photograph Flowers

Fertilizer

Mixing Your Own Soils

Gardening Blogs

The Meaning of Flowers

Rose Pruning

Extending the Zone for Tender Plants

Gardening by Month In Central, Tx

Merry Christmas

Poisonous Holiday Plants

What does a gardener want for Christmas?

Which Christmas Tree Suits Your Needs?

How to Care for Your Poinsettia

Poop for the Roses & Trees

Pruning

Xeriscape

The Beginning